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If the car is sitting on all 4 wheels and one t bar is fully loose then something else is keeping it up. Put a jack under the loose t bar lower control arm and jack it up. If the car raises them either it is at full bump and hitting the up bump stop or something is seized

6 faces. (Or is it 5?) Not really a way to mis clock the bars.

Assuming your shop floor is relatively flat you could test this theory out by supporting the body on jack stands, if it is twisted it will show up. I have a 67 dart stripped down and one of 4 jack stands needed shimming. Might be my shop floor cause it was only a fraction of an inch. If it was...

Can you move the suspension on the side with the t bar loose through its range of motion? Maybe it is frozen? Does the car have a sway bar?

I had a door mechanism on my front door of my house. Over time the part that retracts the bolt had worn down (worn a grove) and the lever got harder and harder to open the door. To the point it would no longer open. Thoughts... The pin on the back of the outside button might be worn down...

The rear springs can effect the front left right lean.

Did this just start happening or has it been getting harder to open as time has gone by? Have you changed anything in the door? If you push in, pull out ,lift up or down on the door while pushing the outside button does that change how the door opens from the outside?

Does not seem excessive. But for a test you could try reducing it to 5 or 10 just to see if it makes any difference.

Where is your initial timing set. A lot of initial timing could exacerbate the problem But my bet is on the trunk mounted battery wiring

I'm not aware of other than GT rocker trim. It's about 3 inches wide

14x4.5 sbp wheel 155 x 14 tire Also sits flat in the well. BUT it is just under 24" OD and the 245 x 60 15 is 26.57. If used on a suregrip the clutches will be doing a lot of slipping to go straight Firestone F560 Radial Tire | 155R14

Any update on the hose?

Steve, Do you have suregrip? If so be sure whatever tire rim combo you get is the same outside diameter as your rear tires. Unless a 14" rim won't fit your brakes the rim / tire size is immaterial as long as the outside diameter of the tire is the same as your rear.

Here are photos and dimensions from my 67 Dart OEM link and the part number of the OEM repo links installed. If your OEM sway bar has these type of mounts to the frame and looks like this the links are probably the same as 67. Approximate center between bushings 4.5" Washer to washer...

Unless you disassembled the 2 heads or put the 100 mph number plate on the 120 mph head Not much you can mix up

Wouldn't you?

But you are probably getting what is advertised. He has a reputation to maintain

I would check on the registry for any GTS you are looking at. If it's there chances are it's real

The front most bolt is a carriage bolt (very thin square section compared to a standard carriage bolt) The rear bolt is a standard bolt

So it sounds like you changed from a 100 mph to a 120 mph speedo. Was the 100 speedo accurate? If so the 120 speedo may need to be internally calibrated. You can verify this by driving a known distance. The longer the better! Recording the odometer at start and stop. If the miles are very...

Would you post a close up photo of the center hole of both perches on the housing

Does any of this info match the car? From the GTS registry https://www.gtsregistry1969.com/ Only 102### car LS23P9E102***: GTS#465: ##OWNERSHIP UPDATE## 7/4/2022 : GTS # 465 is now residing in Connecticut under the care of Steve K. Steve bought his GTS from a Classic Car Dealer in the...

How about some photos

End links? Are you talking tie rod ends? Or The rubber bushing on the strut rod?

Be sure to get the restoration type. They have the proper flat in the bottom of the U. Also be sure you get the correct width. 7 1/4 uses smaller 2.5???? Wide, 8 3/4 use 3" And the correct length Mancini Racing 7-1/4 Axle Housing U-Bolts

Look at post 4 Product Review: A100 Fuel Sender For 67 Dart

Watch and learn

Two less bolts to break, but I get it.

Clean off the gunk to see what you are working with If it has fingers that spread to lock the cable to the frame get a long socket that just fits over the end and tap it on the squeeze the fingers in Pull the shifting out of the frame

I did not do that and did not see a need to do it. I just slid the rear to one side, lifted one end off the spring then slid it the other way and off the other side.