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I use a wire wheel on a bench grinder and they clean up well and quick. If you use vinegar or any other acid solution, you need to equalize the parts in baking soda or Bi-carb.

I had a 70' 340 in my van, but took the motor and Trany out for a rainy day, then scraped the van in 2020 when I moved. That is how I know it is a van or truck 6 qt. oil pan. Remember, the 360 is different and will not work on the other small blocks. The truck or van pan will not work on a stock...

Could also be a Van pan, I have one and the best part of it is, they are 6 Qt. pans, not 5 as in a car. I think having the "J" heads, it could be a 360. which can in the vans and trucks in the 2 BBL platform. I found many "J" heads that way. I made a comment, not seeing a head marking earlier...

I agree toolman, I think it may be a 318 out of a truck or van, by the shape of the oil pan. I would also assume the heads are from a later SB and not a 340. No X,J,O or U castings on the heads.

Be careful, someone may be waiting at your front door when UPS drops it off.

There making a 3-D 833!!!!

May not be what you want to hear, but I would remove the motor and transmission and install the "K" member first. It would be easier to adjust for placement. I have installed several "K" members that way, without issues. Note: Be sure the ends are cleaned out and with fresh grease added...

I think if I was a car theft, I would look into a large industrial or warehouse park, where it is busy and not a isolated area where everyone knows everyone.

What is your enjoyment worth? I spent over $15,000 on my dart in my photo in 87', and hundreds of my hours doing the enjoyable work on it. When done then, it was worth around the same amount of money I spent on it. I still have it and drive it often, after 37 years.

Your red door also has the remote mirror hole in it, while the other door does not. Being your door is already painted, you will need a "remote mirror" also.

I say, the start of a broken bolt is when you insert them into "WHATEVER". I always add a little anti-siege when I install some as the water pumps and timing covers, wheel studs or any other locations that seems suitable. I no they make a high temp sealant for the exhaust, but not sure on an...

That is why you have torque specs. The threads on a larger bolt as you say, should also make the threads in the aluminum heads stronger to hold. Just follow the torque specs and no stripping out the head or breaking a weak bolt.

All my trucks have oil bath bearings and they are the way to go. No greasing needed, just be sure you have enough oil in the rear and do a hard left and right, every now and then. I had one big issue once. Sent a rear drum in to have turned and left the bearing in for the shop to remove in case...

Recalls don't save money. A five cents bolt may cost the manufactor hundreds of dollars for repairs, plus a customer in the future. Save me now, I'll pay later, attitude!!!! A bean counter can save a company money or close them down.

Why does the aftermarket header bolts not break, but the stock one do today. I still say the steel in the bolts used today are inferior. When I commented on lowing the Torque, I didn't mean loose, just take a little pressor off the bolt and allow the gasket to take up some of the expansion. Just...

If it is true what you say 19DART66, then maybe a little less Torque on the bolts could be the answer and allow the manifold gasket to take on the different expansion differences. I think it is just "CHEAP" or the wrong steal being used in their fabrication.

I call it a factory defect. Weather it is the thin manifolds, small bolts or the cheap metal being used in them, it all falls on the pencil pushers. Pay it now or a lot more later. When customers pay 60-90,000 for a vehicle, you would think you are getting the best available. The CEO's needs to...

Why not use Fel-Pro gaskets and match port the gaskets to fit over the gap and under the exhaust lower port. Should be enough pressor to stop a leak. Never had this issue on a sb Mopar, but I did on a Chevy 350 and had to double up on the gaskets to get a good cushion seal.

I have used Ford type "F" transmission fluid in my 727's for years without issues. It has an additive. Ford had a "BETTER IDEA" with that.

Remember the Slick 50 hype.

A-OK, I just woke from a nap and slipped up. After I sent I noticed. I corrected it.

69' Dart Swinger 340, four speed was 2800 lbs, advertised a dollar per pound.

The early 360's had the "J" ( 2.88-1.60) heads, but were only in the two BBL form. Mostly in trucks.

They had the small bucket seats out of the vans and no rear seating. The odd thing was, all the 68 Hemi Darts I seen, had carpeting.

I believe the V10 is a takeoff from the SB, not BB.

I didn't bring that up USP4U did. I just made a comment to his R3. Sorry wrong motor, I was referring to the RX motors, not R motors. Must be an age thing.

An R2 and R3 are Mazda motors back in the early 70's. Rotary motors.

Every app. is different. There is no one answer. A all-out race car, I would use a thinner oil, as you say, but I would also use a High volume oil pump, which would also mean a deeper pan.

I backhand the rims and check for abnormal heat.

On one of my older 340's years ago, I ran 10W40, to 100,000 miles, then changed to 20W50, until 175 miles, then went to 50W, until I blew it up. By changing the oil viscosity as the motor aged, it kept the oil pressor up as needed. The reason a good oil gauge is important. I run 20W50 on my...