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Had exact same problem with a Pert module. Died suddenly....but started after engine cooled down. Owner no longer trusted the Pert & switched to HEI. Going well now, well over 10 yrs.

The 383/400 Chr has the highest rod/stroke ratio of ALL the popular BB engines. That means they do not breath well at low/mid rpm, all else being equal. Sig Erson, a very clever cam grinder, realised this DECADES ago & issued the warning below; although it refers to the 440 [ has a high r/s...

You either have the wrong m/c.....or the wrong pushrod.....or both.

I would be looking at the coil, points & cond, or ECU if elec ign.

If you guys think the 'US made' FT lifters are OK, then you should watch a few Powell Machine Co videos...

If the body of the alt was not earthed, then there would no current flow through the alt & therefore no heat generated. I cannot see how the alt can be mounted [ with bracket etc to the engine ] without being earthed.....

Clean plugs with Lacquer Thinner & toothbrush. Good to go. But why were they fouled? good chance it is that shiny thing bolted to the intake with 4 bolts.....

From Crane cams, years ago. To feel a difference, adv or ret the cam a MINIMUM of 4*.

Reduction in Hemi piston skirt length with the longer rod....... The Hemi rod was less than a 1/10" of an longer the 440 rod. Doesn't make sense to use a longer rod, solely for the purpose of a 0.09" shorter piston that was already very heavy with it's domed top. Moving the pin up in the piston...

Maybe tight bearings?

I didn't read 36 posts. Mike Jones, aka Cam King & renowned cam grinder said a while back that the FT lifters are made off shore, only one company making them in the US. This week on Speed talk he said he has Chebby lifters.....for $320. So if you are getting lifters for much less.....they are...

So, no ign box, just a bal res? That would be correct for 1967....which is: ign coil, points & condenser. I would start by replacing the points & cond.

There was a guy on forums by the name of Dave Ray. Haven't heard from him for a while. [ Which is good because a lot of what he posted was BS ] Claims he worked on the development of GMs HEI. He also claimed he had 50 gal drums [ plural ] full of dead Pert modules....

I learned my Optima 'lesson' a few years ago. New Optima red, about 18m old. Going down a hill, engine died, no warning. Pulled over, batt was down to about 7v. This was NOT a charging problem. After sitting for a few hrs, bat voltage came back up to 12v. Bat was under warranty, but Optima would...

Thanks, mate!

If the electrical system is stock, the total draw is probably a few amps [ single figures ] less than the alt rating.

Those modules are pretty cheap. I would replace it. Use heat transfer paste between it & the mounting. NOT dielectric grease!

If you want to reduce clutch free play..... Get two friction plates. Scrape/remove the friction material from one side of EACH plate. Piggy back them in the clutch pack.

My wife talked me into getting a cat [ we got her as a kitten ]. Had always been a dog person. Sadly, both have passed way, but the cat was a great comfort me to me after my wife passed way. Now a cat lover.

Giving an engine 32* at idle is NOT a band aid if that is what the engine wants for best idle & vacuum. A band aid would be giving it less than optimum timing at idle...

Lifters: find some factory lifters & have them re-faced [ you can use S/B lifters if easier to find ]......unless you want to go through this again....

...cu in. What they have in common is shorter rod/stroke ratios. Here are some actual numbers. Max tq is applied to the crank when the rod is at 90* to the crank throw. On a short rod engine, this occurs higher in the bore, where the expanding gas has more force. With a 3.00" stroke & 4.5" rod...

Bit of flawed logic there from Darin. If two engines have the same capacity [ cu in ], but one is short stroke/big bore, other is small bore/big stroke, the contact area of the rings against the bore is the same for each engine. The big bore does not have an advantage because of the bore size.

I cured vapour lock on my 440 by removing the factory fuel pump & fitting a Carter #4594 elec pump. VP lock is usually worse, or causes more problems, at idle & low cruise rpm. That is because the engine is using less fuel. The fuel stays in the pumped & lines longer....getting cooked by the heat.

Yes, this ^^^^^^^^^^^^

Might be one for the Guinness Book of Records....

Quite agree! But it is still an elec pump pushing the same fuel to the engine....

An electric pump does fix v/lock. Modern cars use elec pumps.....& the same fuel.....& they don't get v/lock. Pump needs to be mounted near the tank.

You have a high rpm intake & wondering where the low end went? Use an RPM intake. 9.5 CR is not helping either. You need a HEAP more initial timing, 30* plus.

Looking through old magazines....SS & DI Dec 79. Article on long & short rods. Apparently at that time there was a junior fuel Chevy class. Ran fastest with a 1.9 r/s ratio, but et'd best with a 1.75 ratio. Junior fuellers were limited to 310 ci & had NO transmissions. With a 1.9 ratio, they...