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Thanks but what is the timing actually given where the body of the distributor is? Or it doesn’t matter as its say 7 degrees from the starting point regardless of the body position?

you're looking for 111" magnum force makes some bolt in units: https://www.magnumforce.com/tubular-subframe-connectors-a-body-mopar/p23 these hotchkis probably take the least amount of welding...

Cool.

Meh, I wouldda gone for a little more than 7, but that should bust it right off and you can add to from there. Nice work.

@Dantra I wiped the white printing off the gates shrink clamps with lacquer thinner. It came off with zero effort.

That **** brown 4 door on Roadkill was nice.

Wouldn't be to bad with a 427 and all the trimmings.

Setting up for first start after pulling the distributor for some top end work. I know this is a basic question so I hope you guys will be patient with me. I stabbed the distributor with the timing market about 7° before top dead center. The rotor is pointing to number one and I have it set so...

Or DannyNoCarMopar also has a nice ring to it. Kinda like Mopar or No Car. Or Maybe ChevyDan?

i have a life. i have a car too unlike some on here. it may not be perfect but i'm working towards it. it's what you do when 'just the right car' either isn't out there or you're too tight to pay for it. you just make what you have into what you want.

I had a 68 Chrysler 300 with a 440 TNT in it. beautiful car.

Hey guys, this ain't rocket science.

Lowering/dropping too quick?

Is it tracking straight?

no action in your camp then............ plenty of talk though :BangHead:

Hey Ken, I suspect part of this issue is "down time", and perhaps building a similar engine for a like for like swap helps to eliminate that. There is a machine shop not too far away from you in Lake City called Adenaline performance who speaks mopar, and can build you a long block of which ever...

I agree that the cfm size is adequate, but that 1407, man they have a lot of issues even new and I don't think Edelbrock has ever addressed them. Running lean, surging and on and on. You can find page after page of problems with them on the internet. I have one myself and went through it...

Nice car, George. BTW folks, I saw it in person before it was inspected and on the hoist. It's better than it looks in the pictures, I assure you all. Ya did good! That's great that it passed the inspection the first time, and you broke it in right by going on a beer run. For all of you...

Since you’re working on a replacement head, I have to assume the welding situation didn’t pan out.

That's already been said, talk is cheap, action costs money

I have one (thanks Wolfie) just need the floor pivot for the pedal

I'll check on Monday (to see if I have a 1965 V-8 904) it would be a "core" trans, and require rebuilding, if I have one.

anything from 650 to 750. personally i'd rebuild what you have and run it. unless you hate how it performs and it's crapped out, it's cheap and quick and will get you back on the road and enjoying the car. if you were into upgrading and spending money, i'll throw my rec for an eddy AVS 2...

Too many failures with Bronze gears in street driven cars. If you’re not racing buy a melonized steel gear.

Great ! thanks for the help.

Now that is an awesome pic. But bad news

340 pistons Need .20 over size. What you have?

Get an early v8 setup. Don't rube Goldberg it. They are around...