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Well if you're still working on this and want to solve this a. post up b. stop following the youtube video's and MAD @Woodys_Cuda and @TurboGLH were giving you good advice.

67-69 barracuda the main cable should go from the bulkhead through at least two support clips before entering the fusebox.

If the FSM diagram is correct, then in your '69 cigar lighter feed X1 and parking light feed L8 come from the same fuse. The fuse list in the 69 FSM says the same. Turn signals are not fused in '69. Turn signals are on a branch of the switched accessory feed Q2. They all share the feed Q3...

The '69 FSM wiring diagram shows L8 as stop and tail. That labelling is not correct. L8 goes directly to the B2 terminal on the headlight switch. It powers the parking and tail lights, and through the subcircuit starting at the reohstat the instramentation and radio lamp. Stop (brake) lights...

The headlights are a seperate circuit. See here 68 Barracuda Instrument lights not working

Here's an explanation of the headlight switch and how the parking lights relate to the instrument lights, and the dome/interior lamp circuits. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/68-barracuda-instrument-lights-not-working.539461/post-1974282292 Here's a 67 convertible with similar...

You can poke around if you're looking at what is contacting what. Or you can do some diagnosing. Lets start here: Does the headlight switch turn on the dome light? and What does the parking light have in common with the dash instrument lights? -> How did you determine the fuse is good?

To be specific. It knocks the video signal out on my WinPro7 desktop. Sometimes I'll notice slowing in response esp. USB mouse. Anyway lemme log off before trouble occurs

Ammeter reads 40 discharge to 40 amps charge With engine oiff, key off, headlights should show about 10+ amps discharge depending on lamp type and whether parking lights go off with headlights on. Vehicle with H4 lamps and sidemarker lamps...

Aw common guys. I've posted this more than once. Both for diagnosing resistance in a circuit and for planning on loads an alternator needs to be able to supply. Do a search. I can't stay on this website and risk having it crash my system - which

How could we know that green was blue? and that tan was connected to J2-16DBL* ? We could only tell you based on the info you provided. You should have enough info now to figure it out. I certainly can't see what you have there.

Basically Yes. Power in ignition 1 (wire J2) and ignition 2 (wire J3) is used to signal the MSD to turn on. Ignition 1 is power to run the engine and that includes the alternator. One branch goes to the regulator so the regulator knows the system voltage. Another branch goes to a field...

I don't k now where what wires have been snipped. Joining the J2 & J3 is fine with an MSD, although not neccessary. My diagram is just a rework of the circuits of interest based on the factory diagram. According to the diagram The ignition feed went to a welded splice. I don't know if that's...

All wires connected to the battery positive are hot even with key off. Alternator output is R6 and that you tell us is connected. Field wires J2 branch and R3 connect to the spade terminals on the alternator. The J2 (blue) comes from a splice in the J2 circuit. R3 must go to the...

Your '72 was a wired with isolated field circuit. Explained here: Identifying Chrysler Alternators (1960-1976)

It needs to be wired in. Charge the battery on a charger before restarting with the alternator circuit wired up. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/charging-battery-with-alternator-warning.424783/#post-1972341430

The running voltage should be between 13.9 and 14.8 depending on temperature. It should not increase in with rpm. It should be the same everywhere in the main feeds. Just as important is the battery draw or discharge. The ammeter should be at zero (centered) most of the time. It should show...

That's a short circuit.

The fact that lamp turns on when the key is in run (and start???) makes me think its somehting other than a ground problem. More so if this still occurred with the headlight switch connector removed from the switch. Put the key in accessory position and see if it still occurs. With key in...

Remove the green wire and cap it. You'll need to figure out what the previous owner did there. That's an F_Up. The heavy black wire connection is better on the engine but it should work as drawn. The MSD 6 unless they've got junky will start with far less than 12 Volts. Go place a voltmeter...

How about the instrument panel indicators? Do they turn on with the correct sides?

It could be a poor ground at the socket or the bulb base to the socket (less likely but happens). However the fact it is on when the switch is off makes me suspicious. https://www.web.imperialclub.info/Repair/Lit/Master/236/page01.htm You can do some checks so you're not throwing darts...

2 bbl or 4 bbl 273? For best economy and performance you want a distributor with the best timing curve for the specific engine. Changing from points at the cost of changing timing curve to one that is less efficient will hurt performance.

If I was going to throw darts, it would be steering column. The right way is at this point is to disconnect the battery and test for cross wire short if there is nothing visually obvious. Yours is not a short to ground, its a cross wire short. I don't know what instrument cluster or what mods...

...same rpm as it does now. How it works is explained in another thread, but basically the secondary spring contact is based on degrees of advance. If you're going from say 5* initial to 15* initial, then the secondary spring needs to be adjusted the equivalent of 10 crank degrees to be...

Factory Service Manual has the diagrams. Trace or copy the circuits of interest. If you mean the horn contact in the steering wheel, IIRC there is a feed from the horn relay. It goes to the steering column connector and then to the horn switch. When the switch is pushed, the wire is grounded...

It's not odd. Take a look a some other multi-terminal connectors - like the ones on the bulkhead. Unless the vehicle is fully optioned out, some positions have no wires on one side and some positions have no wires or terminals on both sides. Same part used for different purposes saves money...

Top of the pentagon connector is power for the ECU When the distributor signals the ECU, the ECU connects its left pin (black and yellow wire in diagram above) to ground. That's all it does. Works same as points closing. Give that battery a long slow charge. it should be around 12.6 to 12.8...

I beleive that by '84 Chrysler had changed to ECU's that no longer required the 5th pin and 5 ohm resistor to control power for running the ECU. The plug was never changed. it may have the 5th ire removed. What wire did you touch to ground? If its the controlling primary wire (connected to...

The neatest labels will be the ones Dana posted. IMO they will not last that long. But just the process of labelling may help you remember how its hooked up. When you label, spend some time with the wiring diagram. That way you'll really learn how the circuits are connected up. The system is...