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Sorry, I don’t have a pic. This was years ago. I believe it’s where I said it is in post 20.

What happens when u unplug the switch? Does the signal flash on the side the brake light is on?R u sure the right bulb is in that socket? Did u change the flasher? Did u try a different signal light switches suggested by omm? Disconnect the white wire from the signal light switch to see if the...

Yes, it can. Adjust the brake light switch to see if that fixes your brake light problem. Did u clean any ground wires?

Check to make sure all bulbs are correct and installed properly. Adjust the brake light switch. Report back. Do the brake lights work while u use the signals and vice versa?

U may need a new/used to u signal light switch. Do the brake lights work? Kim

It is now marked SOLD

If u really want factory tape there is one roll for sale on FBBO. $13.00 shipped. Says Plymouth inside the roll. Kim

For 1 thing no 340s ever idled at 650 rpm. 900 rpm for them all. Kim

I had ad many 70s dodge trucks where the wires on the alt gauge came loose and they would over charge 15-18 volts. Other times it was a broken wired at/near the regulator plug. Mim

What about steel and steel. Is the dash grounded as in are all the screws holding it in. Is the voltage limiter good? Kim

Yes I did but it sounds like u have more grounds to the aluminum than to the iron.

Besides being grounded to all aluminum parts are you grounded to iron? Then to the chassis that isn’t painted. Kim

The ohms will be the resistor not the coil. Kim

I have had where they are corroded at the bulk head and that causes too much resistance. Check the wire at the ign switch and see what reading u get. Kim

If he has a ready to run dist he needs to bypass the resistor to have 12 volts to the coil. Kim

Mopar starters come in 3 or 4 different lengths. U can change from 1 to the other. When u use the higher amperage starter on a small block u may have to remove the brace that comes from the block to the tranny on the drivers side as it and/or the bolt that holds it to the block will interfere...

Years ago I had a car come into the shop that was changed from a lean burn to a regular electronic with parts from an auto wrecker. It kept retarding the timing. I swapped out to a dist I had laying around and it was good after that.I had tried 2 other ecu’s. They never made any difference. Kim

Try another distributor. Kim

If your timing is bouncing that much u may have an intermediate shaft bushing problem which was mentioned b4 in post 9. Kim

Talk to Ray b4 u take it apart. Kim

The springs and/or the weights are binding/sticking in the dist. Is the cap on tight. Is the rotor on tight. Try this, take the cap off and turn the rotor back and forth. Turn the rotor anti clockwise first. Did it move any? Turning to the right it should move a fair amount. Kim

I had a 75 fury doing that. Turned out to be the pick up in the distributor. Kim

Yes it will charge either way. I still want it the way the factory did it. Kim

I always put the blue to the top and the green on the side as that’s how the factory did it. Kim

I’ll be running a mini alternator when mine goes back together. Kim

Best place to start is with @Johnny Mac @Blue Print. Kim

92-01. Kim

67 is all black. I believe late 71 was orange if u had electronic ignition. If not 72 for sure. Kim

The dealer used to order me 2 sets so I could do a car. Then they would send them back defective. He said that way they wouldn’t be resold. Kim

Another place to check is on the back of the alt gauge. It gets hot and the plastic melts and the terminals get loose. Then u have this. Wry same overcharging problem. One way to check that is have it idling with the lights and hearer fan on. It will be discharging till u rev it up some. Kim