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Yup! That's why I said my head was swimming with numbers and calculations right now. And now the more I calculate and look, the more I think I need to go back to 14s.

I've looked at several sites with charts describing wheel diameter versus what tire width will work. A 7 inch wheel is supposedly OK for a 9 inch tire (profile). I would think that this would also give you a little sidewall protection from curb rashing your wheels. The tires I am looking at are...

Same here! I can't view the photo.

NOW! HERE IS ANOTHER CONCERN ABOUT THE WHEEL WELLS!!! I'm currently on 15 inch tires with a 60 aspect ration. All the tires I am seeing that I like are all 70 aspect ratio. My head is swimming with drawings and numbers.....will the 15 inch /70 tires be taller???? (Over an inch taller by my...

With my goal to get the tires inside the wheel wells, my intention is to go with a 15x7 wheel. That way all 4 wheels are the same, and can accomodate up to 9 in width tires. My #1 choice on wheel is the AM Racing AR23 Series (cobo of good looks and good price). #2 would be the US Mags U101 Indy...

That's why I am asking. On mine, I see no need to..1) have a fat *** ties sticking outside the body (I'm not dragging); and 2) The *** up in the air is too much. I figure that I will be putting gas shock on the rear to adjust the height.

"Hot" motor = lots of horsepower I guess??

So, as I am narrowing down new wheels and tires for my 67 Barracuda, the thought occurs to me.... Although I am used to seeing all 4 tires the same width on passenger cars, that does not seem to be what I see on Classic cars. In order to get my wheels and tires back into the wheel wells, I...

Thanks

Sure! Measure your backspacing. That would be helpful. Thx

Are these what you have??? American Racing VN1055765US: VN105D Series Torq-Thrust D Wheel Size: 15" x 7" [Grey w/Machined Lip] - JEGS

Hey Topless, What are the specs on your Torque Thrusts? Backspacing??? Offset??? I did a lot of research on the web, reading, and measuring yesterday. I sat down and drew several pictures to illustrate what I have and what I want. By my calculations, because of the springs n the inside only...

Nope! The bolt pattern is 5x4.5", front and rear.

Fronts are not much of a problem. The rears are 10 inch wide tires on a 9 inch wheel. Tires are 255/60R15

That's one of my wheel options.

Depends on the car! The torque thrusts look great on your gray. And, they look good on my PT Cruiser. But, I'm gonna tuck the tires back in and go for something more original looking, like Weld Wheels.

You are correct in that they are not measured the same; although related in the sense when attempoting to tuck a wheel inside of the wheel well. Most of the wheel specs that I see on the web mention "Offset"; not Backspacing. Jegs has several good diagrams and charts. How To Measure A Bolt...

Yup! Looks the same. And the previous owner lived not that far from PA. Do the center caps have a logo. On mine, when cleaned up, the inside of the wheel is almost a creamy white. And, it looks like Halibrand is now owned by Holley.

Yes, bad ***! But, fender rub ain't cool.

Most of the historical threads talk about needing positive 4 1/2 inch offset. And, I've seen a few diagrams of it. How To Measure A Bolt Pattern: A Guide To Measuring Wheels | JEGS

Can someone identify my wheels from this picture? No markings. These are currently on my 67 Plymouth Barracuda; but I am unhappy with them. I'm sure the previous owner thought the bigger wheels/tires, and raked stance were "cool". But they present a dislike problem for me. #1 - the offset is...

ANYONE HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH MOPAR PLUS INTERIOR REPLACEMENT PARTS???? I saved a few bucks othet places like Classic Industries by ordering my replacement dash bezel for the 67 Barracuda from MOPAR Plus. But, now, I'm not sure about the quality. Installing the new bezel cause a few scratches...

Finished up today; a;though there are alway other small problem encountered or created by what you just fixed. (Iwill not elaborate on them at this time.) Got the dash all put back together today. For me, the speedo cable was easy to remove with the instrument cluster and bezel just leaning...

Even my "old switch" has that ground spade. I bought a new switch that looks the same, because I didn't feel that the dimming function was working well. But even after a hour of playing with the knob and prong button while watching TV, I never could get the knob in. So just went back to the old...

NO! Even the factory schematic does not show a ground prong on the headlight switch. Since Chrysler stopped putting a wire there, I think they chose to leave it off the schematic. It was a supplemental cluster ground in the earlier models. See the Forum thread link that I posted twice.

Yes, I have the factory Schematic myself, large, in color and laminated! But, it does not show the ground blade on the headlight switch. Does not!

Yup! You are correct! It is the fuse block. I keep thinking in a single dimension when I am looking from above; instead of looking from below to get perspective. From that historical thread that I posted, I'm certain that is was just a hanging loose ground wire for the headlight switch. Thus...

No, I'm pretty sure it was the wire I disconnected from the bottom of the headlight switch. So, someone just used a yellow wire, because that is what color wire they had.

Unfortunately, factory schematic is no help. I even have the colored blown up version.