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Update: double stacked gasket was a no go. Still leaked. I'm ready to just drop in a 2bbl that I have laying around. Just need to modify the intake and throttle stuff to work with it

Ahh so it's gasoline *resistant* There's a reason the car hasn't been driven more than to repark it since this debacle started. With it's new mini starter and a rebuilt carb, it starts great though!

I've used the aviation permatex to assist a fuel filler neck gasket before. It's held up for a while. We had some left over so we lightly tacked a gasket with it but it still wanted to leak. Gasoline is a pretty good solvent, so it wouldn't surprise me too much if Dan is right.

It's been a while since I actually looked at the car but if I remember right, it was leaking near the bottom, maybe more biased toward the left side of the carb. I'll see if we can get extra gaskets on there to really take up the space.

Phenolic

A while back I rebuilt the 1920 carb on my brother's 65 Dart. I had just done a refresh on my 67 Valiant's 1920 that had been sitting for decades so I was at least cautiously confident that I could improve a pretty poor starting and stumbling 1bbl. It seems like all the detail work went well...

Working about an hour or so on the weeknights that I'm free. The past week has been surprisingly busy for me, and the trans isn't the only project on the car that needs to get finished. Not to sound super defensive, I really made this post right before life happened and I had no free time to...

Was based on my experience when I had to limp the car home with a fluid leak (I'm smart enough to not do this again), it felt like my converter was getting looser and looser as I went. To verify pump functionality could I pull a cooler line to see if there's pressure out? I hate this "maybe it's...

I'll pull fluid out of it tonight to get the level down. On Saturday I had the car in the air in gear, when all of that went well I put it down and then let it idle back into the garage. Moved about 1 car length. It seemed like the converter worked normally, it idled up and in really easy. I...

From like 5 inches to 3

Get her up in the air today. Goes in and out of gear good, it'll roll forward and backward while idling. Car still needs some work before it goes on the road to test but I think we're fine. Fluid level is down a bit but still a bit high. I don't think it got in to 2nd or 3rd, so I'm not sure if...

Also, I do believe the level has gone down on the dipstick since firing the engine, it's still high but not as high as it was. And I trust the trans builder more than myself. I assume I'm being paranoid but I just wanted to check that I hadn't missed anything obvious. The likelihood that I can't...

Should be able to get to work on it tonight. I'll keep y'all updated

That's the confirmation I was looking for, lol. I have about 10 other projects on the car to get it roadworthy, so I haven't actually lost any time staring at the trans. Just wanted to confirm I wasn't missing something obvious

Just getting my 5.9 Magnum swap installed into my 68 Valiant and trying to figure out what I need to do with my fresh built 904. I prefilled the converter (stock) with a good amount (honestly don't remember how much but I believe it was over a quart) and installed it all. Like I said this is a...

Hughes says 35 dABDC is the actual closing point Edit: have seen some articles that say to add 15* to a .050" lift point. That math gives me 50* and 7.99dcr

Gasket thickness included, heads are open chambered. Piston measurement was taken with the old bearings I received the block with, rod and main bearings just snug, not torqued.

What kind of guidance on dcr to octane requirement is there? Rule of thumb on that?

Block hasn't been decked, kb pistons measured .030 in the hole which was part of my 9:1 calc.

...worth my money to not worry about breaking in a cam. PN: HUG SER1822ALN-10. Since the only numbers I have for this cam say it intake close is at 35* ABDC, I plugged that into the dcr calc. With the static compression ratio right around 9.0:1, I am getting a dcr of 8.4:1 at sea level (I will...

The car is going to pretty much live at and around sea level, so setting it up for dense air is more important than performance at high altitude. To note, I had the 9.4 number in my head and didn't check my notes, that was my potential highest number with some pretty big work to get there. Sorry...

Thanks for all the info! I kinda picked up someone's unbuilt motor, so it's not like I researched and bought all of the parts. Little bit of detective work for me, but it's getting closer. Looks like .032" is probably a good target for me, and the image above says 2nd ring is fine to be gapped...

I'm actually starting to put together the bottom end of my .020" over 318 after way too many months (whoever it was on here that told me to pay them to build my motor was probably right), I'm finally measuring ring gap for the motor. Basically it's just going to be a mild street/strip motor, I...

Update and resolution: picked up a dirty but pretty good looking k member last night. I had meant this thread to be weighing pros and cons of aftermarket tube k members, but instead it turned into a wanted ad. Thanks again to all y'all that offered up your stuff to me, I take appreciate it. Now...

I actually have factory discs on this car, KHs that have kicked my *** every time I touch them. But when they work they work good. Working to get a 73 frame, I'll keep y'all updated if it falls through.

There's a reason I put shoulder belts in my car back when I was dailying it. I wanted to at least pretend I was safe in there

I actually got a message from a local member that has one, so I might jump on that prior to getting one shipped. Everyone on this forum is super generous!

So I should call back the body guy and tell him to leave the k member bolted in and straighten it all up? I don't want to come across as a know it all jerk on that phone call. If he wanted to drop the k member to straighten the frame, is that just the best way to do it, and it'll be fine if I...

So for years of owning my 68 Valiant, I've known it has a bent frame. Finally got it in to a body shop to get it all squared up and got a call today, they told me the k member is bent, too. Basically the conclusion is that the k member isn't fixable and that it likely won't bolt in place after...

Yeah, it's a cast crank.