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Different pinion diameters and taper

Yes

The green Brick was a Race Across America project . Like the Power Tour …

Feather Dusters and Dart Lites had aluminum hood braces , deck lids , bumper braces , aluminum O.D 833 and slant 6’s . I have seen a few of each over the years in salvage yards .

Probably because they got the weight down to 2300 lbs…it was “tongue in cheek “

Yes I knew that but it doesnt indicate if it for power or manual And I wanted to know if some have more preferred settings beyond the Skosh chart . Getting it aligned tomorrow and want to be prepared.

What are you running for alignment specs with manual steering and radials ? I have the Scoch chart but wasnt sure if it applies to manual cads as well . Front tires are 205/70r-14s 69 Swinger with front and rear sway bars if that matters . Just want a nice daily driver feel … not a canyon carver .

Great tip ! My carb is a custom built Pro Systems 850 so it already has bypass holes drilled into the throttle blades.

No .. it’s thru TDS and had no install fees . But TDS is just starting to bury fiber in Boise and it is a promotional offer . Seems pretty cheap !

1 gig of fiber $60/mo

Also changed my pinion angle today . Pinion was up 10* and trany was up 2* ..wtf ?????? Pretty sure beer was involved in that . Lol I got the pinion to 2* down and installed an adjustable snubber . We will see how she drives now . Might have to tweek the angles a bit more .

4700

Better …. A bit smoother around 2k-2500 .

Softened the curve a bit from 1500-2500 . All in by 3k @ 3200. Played with the VA as well . My idle vacuum is 9” and light cruise 15” . Higher speed max it out around 18” . I have an 8.5 VA can and set it to come in around 10”. Next up is more carb tuning . Idles in low 13s afr. Cruises in...

Oh yeah … I dropped a set of 3.91s in it and that helped low end . Lol

This 408 is running ported W2s flowing 297 @ .650 and 1 7/8 TTi headers . I have run my 800 AVS on it and found it had a bit more low end but worse everywhere else . I could set up a 650 DP for running around town and use the 850 if and when I go to the track I guess .

I sold my Pro Dominator to a member that made me an offer I couldn’t refuse . He was having Jim Laroy build an engine for him . Never heard how it turned out .

Thx ! I am running VA and will check out your thread. If you know where it is off hand and could post a link that would be great.

And you believed correctly. Much better off idle torque with the current curve . I will continue to tweek it over the next few weeks .

Yes . Now I need to adjust the idle circuit.

Remapped my curve and it definitely helped. Might need to back off a little at 2000 rpm.

What is your curve like ?

Yes . I will need to break out my laptop when I get home later today .

That’s good info . The engine can idle around 750 but I set it at 950 to keep solid rollers happy . It’s easy enough to change my curve I just haven’t had the time and wanted some feedback before diving into it .

...timing really is a reflection of and determined at high rpm performance. If the engine doesnt perform any better at 34 than 32 why use 34. Unless you are suggesting the engine might want 34-36* at 4000 but 32* at 6500…. Which would be possible with my digital ignition . That would be...

185 cranking

4 speed 3.55 gears although I just picked up a set of 3.91s with clutch style sure grip .

True for many aspects of tuning but wouldn’t wide open throttle at max rpms under load be similar in both cases ? In the car engine bay heat would become a factor but that would call for less timing I would think .

I don’t consider 246/250 to be a long duration for a 4” crank but maybe your right .

My W2s are closed chamber race heads with .040ish quench . Anything more than 32 yeilded nothing on the dyno . Surprised the dyno guy as well .