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Did you stumble on that looking for an A body with the torsion bar adjusters backed off? :lol:

Local guy here prepped his car himself - removed all the trim, lights, door handles himself and drove it to Macco. It looks good, and a year later it it holding up just fine.

I'm going to guess that it is NOT Brewer's. :lol:

There's really no reason not to go with a 360. You just need mounts and how the balance is set up. Magnums are a slightly lighter external balance vs a LA 360. 318 and 340 are internal of course. Anyone know anything about these people...

Welcome to the forum! If the link goes that quick - as soon as you energize the accessory circuit as you said - there's a short in there possibly. You need a volt/ohm meter to properly find the problem. The starter relay state does NOT change when you turn the key to accessory. Wipers...

The factory bushings smush down quite a bit over time. I've had to squeeze and hold the new ones with a welding clamp during install to get the nuts started.

We all have experienced or heard of car guys scattering a 7 1/4. I wonder what the rate of 7 1/4 failures was when they were newer, 3-10 years old? A friend of mine has a 66 Coronet, originally a 225/7 1/4 car.

Excellent skills there. The symmetry is great - important cause you are looking at the whole thing. I bought a set at Carlisle decades ago, supposedly for Duster/Dart Sport. They would have sat on the reveal moldings, and didn't come with much or any hardware. I sold them at Carlisle many...

Banged up base model from the same seller. https://york.craigslist.org/ctd/d/york-1972-dodge-charger/7752196998.html

Looks rusty, but an early 360. Incorrectly tagged as a D100 when it's actually a W100 https://york.craigslist.org/ctd/d/york-1973-dodge-d100/7752179116.html

The gauge only has the ability to show the engine temperature. It cannot control it, any more than a thermometer can control your body temperature.

Do you mean with the car off? It sounds like the wiring has a short. You need a volt/ohm meter to properly diagnose electrical issues, and to be able to get comprehensive, concise help.

410-866-7660 will have all the answers.

I think it looks good. I'm not up on the 69 and earlier A body interior colors, but I would bet the dash frame, console and carpet may have originally been black maybe?

The actual seal is inside, that is just a dust boot. Looks like the driveshaft may be a bit too long?

Definitely undercharged. You could wait till a 98* day and see or maybe add an ounce or two. If the evap hits the unhappy spot where it is 32* or below, the condensate on the coil can freeze, which will block airflow, which will drop suction pressure, etc, etc.

The rule of thumb is about 80% of the factory charge. You want to simulate max load, so windows down with the fan on high. The goal is about 47* discharge air, but 49-53* will do. Don't forget to remove the EPR valve from the inlet of the compressor if it has one. Sadly they are calibrated...

Run a thermocouple off the side of the main caps, or something similar. and compare heat rise at the same time.

If you're running the factory V2 compressor, you'll want to do the oil level check in the FSM and maybe replace the shaft seal if there's a lot of miles on it. You'll need some AC 150 mineral oil or better yet Ester Oil, as it's compatible with residual R12 mineral oil AND 134a. X2 on the...

A friend of mine reached out to someone about the Poly intakes recently, it looks like there's a pause - or worse - in the Poly intake production. https://cpwebstore.com/Poly The other big issue is demand for a lot of this stuff. Every year there's another A body too far rusted to turn into a...

I know this has been covered a bit, but I thought I’d ask for 2024: What is a good brand for a low to medium performance build timing set. I have a 90k 360 that likely has a nylon gear and needs gaskets. I’m not talking race, I mean 95% street driven or a truck-like application? Edelbrock...

Or a truck that will tow nothing! Needs gutted and a V8 added after a chassis, trans tunnel added and a rear. :lol: https://york.craigslist.org/ctd/d/york-1984-dodge-rampage/7735308496.html

That one ton is at a better price here on the east end of the rust belt. If it's really rust free someone will snap it up. Here's a Power Wagon with a 318 and rust in Virginia: https://richmond.craigslist.org/ctd/d/dinwiddie-1971-dodge-power-wagon/7736411116.html

Sometime in spring 71 all the body color wheels stopped, and everything was black after that. This is one of those things thats “known” but documentation of such is a bit obscure. Similar to the radio - the radio IS the option, but most cars had the bottom of the barrel R11 2 1/2 watt Music...

If Edelbrock would publish the list of foundrys that they use, or spend time on quality control....

5k more door Fury that needs ignition. https://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/d/hawthorne-1967-plymouth-fury/7733988583.html

There was 4 cyl Camaros in 81-84 or so, so likely a Firebird also? Maybe the 151 Iron Duke? You want a rare color? Paint it T8 Dark Tan! :lol:

I've seen that on A bodies. Sometimes things got sloppy, and 3/16 or so of the top of the shock moving around is not much really.

Those numbers on the stand? I'm wondering if the idle will be a little different with the weight of a converter or a flywheel?

Good eye. Saw a guy crack the aluminum that way.