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Man Dave, good to see you!!! Another thing I was thinking is that IF he does not have a good radio suppression cap on the coil + that might be an idea. It will help keep the coil power from spiking due to coil feedback.

The first device you pictured is a delay relay The second does not look like a cap. You sure it's not a lamp? What does the other side look like? Shift quadrant lamp? PLEASE ALWAYS POST the year make model

What I hear about Holley in general, lately, I do not like. Bean counters. They recently closed down Hilborn. I guess they aren't smart enough to figure that even though every teen ager doesn't want a Hilborn setup, there still might be money to be made, AKA EFI + Hilborn= cool old...

The alky-ized fuel is much worse for fuel boiling. One of the best things I did with my 67 was to build a vapor return system and use a carb insulator. I used a rear mount electric pump and ditched mechanical. You can buy fuel filters with built in return orifices. The hardest...

Find the yellow and yellow stripe wires going to that and permanently jumper them. It trips and breaks the "start" wire circuit. Federally mandated, 74 only, the pubic hated them

he bypass circuit SHOULD NOT feed from the start circuit. That is because, when in "park" or "neutral" on on a stick car, when depressing the clutch, (grounding the start relay) the coil cicuit of the "start" relay is being backfed/ powered by the coil end of the ballast resistor...

I don't know anything about that setup but you CAN NOT plumb ANYTHING that needs vacuum TO THE INTAKE manifold, with a blower/ supercharger/ turbo. It must be a vacuum source, and if there is none on that setup you will have to use an external pump. This includes vacuum heater...

A voltmeter AT THE battery will tell you that as well. That is part of the reason I emphasize voltage checks. Crank the engine cold and hot, with your probes stuck into the tops of the battery posts. If the battery is known to be charged, and the voltage sags anywhere near 10V or...

By the way with that much drop, I'd start by feeling around the cable connections for "warm." Could even just be a dirty battery clamp at the posts

You have to check and find out!!! Voltage drop is just like a diagram---follows a road, follows a road map. If you hit a chuckhole (bad connection at a terminal) that is a drop right at the terminal. If you hit a narrow road (long length of wire) that is drop over a distance/ length of...

I may be "forgotten." I think someone tested those against an Ed and the Ed won big. I think I've got one I bought used

Seems to me it could also be internal problems in the converter

THIS. You MUST test under load "cranking." That is the way voltage drop works. If you can't measure the battery in the trunk by yourself, "rig" some wire from the meter up front to the battery. Use your head. You can use an extension cord, EG example: Get an extension long...

I just have to say, I have NEVER seen a T bar come out at an angle like that. Do you have a shop manual? Somewhere in there is the car/ unibody dimensional points. I would be checking the car for dimensional "bent." And it's already been mentioned, are the bars bent? Other than...

The other thing, there is a product called "meter match" but unfortunately it was recently bought out and the prices went up. There is also a similar product on ebay. Sorry, I don't have the info handy. You have to get into the dash wiring, and this device goes electrically between the...

Not only that, but the LA holes ARE NOT perpendicular to the intake face, either. OP if you do a search and find a thread or two on here about this, there are some photos and such that might help to build one. I have thought and thought about this, but I soon turn 76, and I'm...

Did you replace the suction hose? Take a look at it in any case. I would certainly replace the tank to fuel tube hose, as well as the fuel tube to pump hose, and make certain they are not crimping under suction. I'd also take a look at the pump to carb hose and fittings.

No idea. Is it possible the welder was set up that way a purpose, AKA the tig pedal was designed to control speed with MIG, and power in TIG mode? Is there a function switch that is set differently? Would have to study the diagram, otherwise, and some of those are so poorly drawn...

Tim where did you get that chart? There are all kinds of them, and "some disagreement" LOL. AC ampacity is not to be used for automotive. Also, FOOTAGE of the total wire matters I'm not claiming this website is more accurate, but quite different results...

To add a little bit, this is not magic, and I AM NOT FAMILIAR with Aspens NORMALLY, in the older cars covered by this board, the IGNITION SWITCH is the key to it all IGN1 is hot ONLY in run and goes COLD in "start." The start voltage is provided by the brown / bypass circuit that...

It might be as simple as loose/ corroded connectors. Pull them apart and inspect. I BELIEVE that the cylindrical connector terminals such as the ECU, the VR on 70/ later cars, and the dist. pickup connector is about the same dia. as a flat trailer connector. You can I believe...

Only thing I can think of, unless it's a coincidence, is a partially plugged fuel tank vent If you do not have a service manual, please run over to MyMopar.com and download one, free. Some of them there got there because of some of the guys on here. The cap is and is supposed to be SEALED...

Off the alternator? No. The functional path is..........blue gets power from the key, it is on the same line as "ignition run." Blue supplies battery power to alternator field.........through the field..........to the green wire.............which goes to the regulator. The regulator...

Yeh the points or pickup is what triggers the spark. The rotor is not really a great index, although you can certainly get it close enough to fire.

I don't believe that is the issue. Yeh, I know, he says he wiggled it and it went away, but I do not believe that is the cause. I've posted a LOT about these problems. A loose connection(s) in the field circuit should cause UNDER voltage if anything. Rarely, a bad battery will...

No, you are completely incorrect!!! You made TWO "another ones!!" So stick the badge, pretend it's a multi point suppository.

Man I'm sorry, I simply do not understand. You say "everything works except the radio." That surely is not true or you would not have posted what you did earlier??? Please go up and read post2 and answer those questions What do you mean you are "not getting power OUT of my...

Sounds like you have the right idea BUT.......... Do you understand about "compression stroke?" You must get no1 on compression. Pull no1 plug, bump engine, with your finger in no1 hole, and feel for compression. Then as it "starts to" compress, look for the marks and bring them up...

I think you have something bent, as in from an accident, or rust, etc. May be the K, may be the frame horns, etc. I see no way that even without the factory bolts, you could get a K that far off just from slopping it back and forth in the mounting holes.

Steve the so called standard is .040" There's more to it than that, if you find the original aircraft spec, it involves orifice entrance and exit angles and such, but close enough for us rednecks. My 1.99 thrift store TI scientific calc (solar LOL) says 3/64 is .0467. If you can...