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Going to suggest a modern LED option could be available that surface mounts and allows for just a small hole for wire to get thru the fender and not look too bulky or out of place.

Yes, I know the OEM style trunk seal glues/sticks on and is available, but I don’t want to do it that way. Has anyone tried using a seal bulb that presses over/clamps to the lip of the trunk opening? Anyone think this is a dumb idea? Car is a 1972 Duster for reference.

I run PST 1.03” bars in my 1972 Duster and whatever shocks were on the car when it came to me since they worked still, and no issues. I did add HD 6 leafs out back and 1973 disc brakes and 15” wheels and radial tires as well. With the weight of the 340/727 and no sway bars the car corners flat...

Everything is somewhat streetable, just depends how much you value smiles per gallon over miles per gallon lol

Just an idea for your build. Don’t let what you think it will be dictate the build. Knowing you what a street rod with deep gears and a manual, start seeing what deals come your way that support that kind of build. Let that decide engine size and what kinds of parts go into it. Good luck

I am in my 30s and have one thing to say about this EV car thing. I think it is great that EV cars can have a place in society, but forcing it is the same as pushing a rope, they are not for everyone. People started switching to them to avoid gas tax etc, and now they are starting EV taxes so...

I am not going to make any friends with this post, but I think it’s accurate for your situation, plus I just don’t care if you like this. You want answers to why your car is overheating and have given some loose facts for what is going on and what you have tried so far. As you have been...

340 with purple cam has operating powerband of 2600-6000 rpm, so why would one want to be at 2000 rpm and still have to rev it to 4000 to pass because not in power band and you will downshift… I think (opinion) that staying a constant but higher rpm is better for an engine than wild rpm...

Rude72, My Duster should be turning around 3200 RPM on flat ground at 60 with the 27” tall tire. Non lock up converter adds a couple hundred RPM from if it were a manual. But note I am usually turning over 3500 RPM on highway which is 70 MPH, which I find quite acceptable. Speedometer is...

Oddly I had checked other threads before that reply and now after I seem to have full functionality of the forum reply boxes again.

Huh, I can actually reply to this thread, making it the only one I can reply to… interesting

During a reply on a thread in the main forum sections I lost the ability to do anything with my text but was able to post the unfinished reply. I figured small glitch and I would just edit it but I have lost the text boxes in post edits, new replies, and PMs. Thought must be site wide but...

Hey Rude72, I am running a very similar combo. 1972 Duster 340 with 284/484 Purple cam 750 Edelbrock on LD340 intake TTI shorty headers, dual 2.5” exhaust 3200 stall FTI Performance torque converter 727-A non lockup trans 8-3/4 Sure grip with 3.91 gears 255/60r15 (27” tall) Edited to add more...

I started with adding 14” Tuff wheel but found the 15” Challenger wheel worked better with manual steering and ability to see my gauge cluster. Plus it looks better too I think.

This is the correct answer. I’ve done the front alignment on my Duster and reset the torsion bar height after settling a few times now and what I found is 1/4 turn on torsion bar adjustment, drive around block, remeasure, repeat until you like the number. I tried that using the “jounce” method...

My solution on my Duster was install Voltage and Oil Pressure gauges in a custom mounting bezel that I made to fit in the uncut radio hole in my dash. I am not running the dash oil light and have bypassed the ammeter.

The hood and scoop together and independently are both basically trashed condition wise at this point. The hood is wavy, bracing beginning to separate in places. The scoop is trimmed poor, major chunk outs filled in. So I am in no way concerned. If I could tolerate the cost of a new one piece...

It was checked at speed before repairs and sleeving the center bolt and after all that was completed and it did not break apart before or after. And if you end up being right later, whatever… the scoop owes me nothing and it would be opportunity to change things up, but I am sure it will be...

I appreciate the input and I had seen that as the more proper install but prior to this picture the center bolt had no sleeve and therefore the scoop was flexing down and cracked. I sleeved the center bolt and firmed up the install. I checked for flex after and found no issues so opted to run...

Ok, the long awaited hood scoop install photos. The scoop itself is centered left to right on the hood, while the 18.5” hole in the hood is offset like the engine. The center of the hole measure out to be the center of the air cleaner stud. Any gaps are from the prior installer cutting the...

I believe that was clever click bait to get us here to talk about what it takes to install the scoop. :P

Not sure who posted it or how long ago but a member on here posted flow numbers of various cylinder heads for various lift as he tested them on a flow meter and I used the flow number for X heads at around .400-.500 lift as I have .484 lift. It can be found with search function, that’s how I...

Interesting to bring in aerodynamics of a particular hood scoop design on a car that is otherwise shaped like a brick LOL. Remember, the very next year after the 1968 Hemi scoop was the introduction of the Dodge Daytona Charger because the grill was catching too much air in Nascar lol. I agree...

That style booster is expensive rebuilt but not terrible, I bought one that was rebuilt by I believe the same place, top notch. I did this because the used one I put on the car was not working. I didn’t notice because I went from 4 wheel manual drums to power disc/drum and even with the non...

Streetable 340 making 450 hp… meh… I suppose I will post my combo in my 340 Duster. 10.5:1 flat top pistons 284/484 purple cam (241 duration at .050) hydraulic flat tappet. Rebuilt X cylinder heads 1.5 Harland sharp rockers LD340 intake Edelbrock 750 3200 stall FTI converter 727 transmission...

Picture is 4 years old and seat has torn upholstery seams.

Is a 1972 Deluxe bench the same? Or is 73 the year they went to high rise backs on the bench? I took the adjustable headrest style Deluxe bench out of my Duster a few years ago and it could be gotten to Michigan by me if you don’t need it this year.

There is a ring of steel welded in that goes thru the hood from bottom of the reinforcement ribs to about 1” above the hood itself and then body filler transition to the hood surface. Yes that filler cracks at that seam and no you can’t see it under the scoop unless you look for it. Hard to see...

That scoop is definitely not too big for the car, my hood scoop is the same size Hemi scoop. It has a functional hole in the hood but with the fact you cut thru structural members it has a reinforcement ring added. Hole is about 16” in my hood and I run a 4x14 air filter up thru it. If you...

You can stick with a 14” rallye wheel on 11” mopar disc brakes I believe, because they are steel. I wanted aluminum rims and those often run into clearance issues with the caliper so I went to 15” and then was railroaded to a 26” tall tire because tire manufacturer options. No regret but had I...