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I'll add that I believe that everyone wants a big block A body at one time or another. I'm all for making the best with what you have in this instance because the juice should be worth the squeeze if you're wanting a thrill ride.

I'd say the 383 plan would be worth the work and frustration, and TTI under chassis low deck headers would be worth the money for the outcome.

The old Crane Hi-6 ignitions that can be found on eBay are more reliable choice than the new MSD units.

Unfortunately, the Slant has a staggered bore center. If it didn't, I'm pretty sure someone would have adapted something like a 2JZ head to fit.

I don't see it doing a lot of good until you can get enough head to flow it. But, on a strictly hypothetical for entertainment value only (and because I can't help but to wonder)... if someone with a CNC operation wanted to take it to the extreme, take one of the old aluminum blocks and pour the...

I'd run a "World Class" T5 behind a blown slant without hesitation... What say ye, @RustyRatRod?

Nice Score! If you don't care, show us some more pictures of the rest of the car.

So you have a particular cam picked out yet and if not, what gears, converter, rear tire, and performance goal? Low compression cast crank 340?

Yeah, the rings won't fully take a seat until actual load is applied to the engine.

PM Coming!

A '68 318 with closed chamber early 273 heads shouldn't be low compression unless it's got a felpro 521SD (4.18 bore x usually .0625 minimum compressed thickness) head gasket or similar on it. Run a compression test for us. A well tuned 650 AVS2 is as close to perfect as you'll find for most...

Just shows how unpredictable headers can be on these cars, too. It's pretty well known that factory tolerance was typically just good enough to get it down to the next step on the line during manufacture.

Glad to see you getting out again, Go Gitum!

:welcome:

I can vouch that the ootb edelbrock heads with a good valve job work very well with a four inch stroke. I could see the aforementioned bowl blend helping out, though!

Not that it pertains much to your lift question (that's going to require some measurement) but what year of 318 and what are the head casting numbers? Is it original or has it been rebuilt? Some 318s have rotators with two groove locks on the intake and exhausts, but a lot do not and have three...

If you're bound and intent to put a five speed in it, start looking for an NV3500. The smaller NV is not bulletproof behind a 5.9 by any means, but the AX15 was not offered behind any V8. The best NV would be a HD dakota unit rated at 340 lb/ft of tourque, but the 4:1 first gear is a bit much...

There's probably the remains of a build sheet in there somewhere, but I doubt it will be readable. It's going to be an ambitous project with the what rust is visible. But I would have to have it, too, just on account of it being an original FC7 Plum Crazy car. A great start to build one the way...

Is the ‘73 duster still there or is it gone, too?

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Man... I'm dying over that originally pale yellow '68 GTS... :eek: That's just and incredible garage/barn find. 340 4 speed manual brake and steering car, factory road rocket, for sure. 75,000 miles and the headliner still looks new. That'd be something else to come into! I'm going to have...

Pressure test. Or fill it with epoxy block filler, set the piston to wall and ring gap to air cool specs, and run it on methanol...

That's going to be a nice piece! What are the cam specs of your solid flat tappet and what are you intending on putting it into?

Send a batch of batch of used lifters out of a stock engine to Oregon Cam Grinders to get reground and hardened/rebuilt.

If it’s a 14X5.5 front wheel, I’m going to be trying out the Yokohama Y-356 185-70S14 van tires, but you probably could get by with something in that same size lighter than an 8 ply. Our roads aren’t the best here anymore, so I tend to go heavy on the weight rating and trim back as needed.

675s for the win. Your ‘69 318 should have the higher compression height pistons. Use a pair of Felpro 1008 high performance gaskets.

On the ring gap question, I don’t remember where I had read it but at least one pro level builder who was using the hot water / head gasket / torque plate method used a “bench cylinder” made from a piece of stock bored and honed to “hot bore size” for setting the ring gaps.

That's still worth watching just to hear about "Fairy Dust and Unicorn Farts!" :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

https://www.amazon.com/GREENWATER-Waterproof-Bootfoot-Cleated-Fishing/dp/B09YHD5SBF/?tag=fabo03-20

That’s pretty slick! Did you run the battery to starter cable through the conduit path next to the sill plate that the rear wiring harness runs through and up inside the kick panel?