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If the car is sitting on all 4 wheels and one t bar is fully loose then something else is keeping it up. Put a jack under the loose t bar lower control arm and jack it up. If the car raises them either it is at full bump and hitting the up bump stop or something is seized

Does anyone know what size the bolts are (Thread size) in the back of the block where the transmission bolts up to? I need to buy some long bolts so I can put the engine on an engine stand. Thanks

My 1969 road runner stock with 4-speed Stomped a 1968 440 built and had slicks he could not believe it so we went through the quarter again and same outcome and he was not happy

mmmrrrppphhh. not the glitter you want to see after a hot friday nite.

We do not use Hydraulic rollers only solid. I am Old School.

Going to throw this out there as the all-star one is the one use. Got caught up in the same type of reading issues but it was as kerndog post shows it was not following on right side start right out zero then back and left side left out then zero and back. Also I just tape my steering wheel at...

did you loosen the control arm pivot nuts before attempting to raise and lower? is it clapped and sitting on the bump stop on the one side? t-bar mount isn't rusted out? 100% what dana said, the bars are almost impossible to mis-clock. sounds like something is borked.

Wish I had one for ya.

Thanks, that was the info I was looking for! I guess some investigation is in order. I wonder whether the pivot at A-Arm might be patially siezed? I guess time will tell.

your e-brake cables may or may not work or may need some fiddling to hook up. likely need a new brake drop line from frame to axle. depending on carrier and what you have, you may need to swap the u-joint or run a combo style one, but that goes along with shortening the shaft like gdrill said.

No. My rear taillights are in the bumper. Thanks for responding.

In line to make a hit.

Thanks for the response. I’ll keep you in mind.

PM sent.

when you get into power levels like that the curve of price point flattens considerably. .... unless it's BPO. that ****'s always gonna be a mint no matter. anyway, you'd know that if you ever built anything. but instead you parrot questionable secondhand information from your sister's...

Liquid IV for the win!!

12/11

Doesn't look anywhere near mine lol

One simple check is setback. Turn wheels in straight ahead position. Then just do a visual. See if the tires/wheels set in opens properly. With cross caster being so excessive, should be obvious. Vehicle should be pulling to the wheel that's pushed back or negative caster.

going to be a roaster across the desert tuesday....heat wave they are saying..

I forgot to add more stuff. Installed the valve springs at as close to the correct hight I can get. I needed some shims of different thicknesses and was lucky the machine shop had plenty in stock. These springs with the dampers I bought from Hughes to use with their cam as they suggested. I'll...

6 faces. (Or is it 5?) Not really a way to mis clock the bars.

Well, I lost a bit of skin, and I am really NOT looking forward to replacing the nuts, but I am halfway there! Special thanks to member str12-340 for giving me some tips on this project.

Sure do will send it this afternoon

Looking for a power column to manual box adapter. Wondering if anyone has one laying around before I get a new one. Thanks

generally we check the oil every time the car leaves the garage. Generally. Would a magnetic tipped dipstick help early on when the lifters are failing? Early enough that you might not have to pull motor? I know it won't help the mid shaft bronze gear eating itself. Just the tip now.

So a little catch up on the last couple of months, I got a new hose reel that came from a freinds friend who hit a rock on his BMW E46 M3 and broke it. I also took a few days off work and flew from Ireland to Sweden to work on the car. The plan of the trip was to make the car completely ready...

I did, also installed an s&s cam plate and some cams too..