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That's why it seems to 'want' so much advance. In neutral it will be happy with a a lean burn and additional time to make the most with that lean burn. First gear is generally a fairly light load. Obviously an incline helps increase that load but it is not equivalent of a heat soaked engine...

Great advice. The '74 diagrams requires some assembly. The diagram here is redraw of the factory diagram but showing only the main circuits. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/1974-duster-total-electrical-failure-followed-by-quick-recovery.547042/#post-1974415233 Notice where the...

Factory range of acceptable timing on engine with initial set at 10* 600 to 650 rpm. This is a good starting point for a non-smog 4 bbl setup. The Chrysler built MP magnetic pickup distributors have a similar curve. Here's one I measured. If the curve is close to these, then its mostly a...

My opinion @Ant is for what you want, go with one of the cam guys that you're comfortable with. You want to experiment and/or compare? then sure do a DV formula and pick one yourself. You want something that will do what you want withoutout much risk? then go with one of the guys in the...

Yea well that's a rabbit hole, and one argueabley worth putting effort into by a magazine or publisher interested in helping hotrodders. Certainly many of us have been on the edge of this or well into this situation (ie screw up) with both street and race setups. It's a rabbit hole because...

Exactly. "Willing to lose" suggests that more is better. It's not. Timing is about what the engine wants under that specific condition. The only time less advance is a "loss" is when an engine is was designed to run with a fuel that was more knock resistant than what is actually being used...

It actually looks pretty nicely done. Only things that stand out in the photo are the battery cables showing some bare copper, and that is not exactly uncommon. tripple on the suggestions above regarding the throttle cable and timing. Spend any money you have avail on a timing light, tach, and...

Hey Chris. Monday I was at Stonefield Center Ag Museum. Most of the McCormisck collection is there. Sorry no pics. Was mostly asking questions and learning.

Well if you're still working on this and want to solve this a. post up b. stop following the youtube video's and MAD @Woodys_Cuda and @TurboGLH were giving you good advice.

Not Philly or NJ. That's the Wisconsin River. Was visiting with a friend. Met up with @71GSSDemon on the way back east. :thumbsup:

coffee's done. Time to grab some breakfast and hit the road. You all have a great time at MITP!

Looks pretty decent. Could become a good driver or whateer you'ld want. These days it seems like its all about creating us and them. A lot of folks eat that up. Grievence culture - all created by 'them' Seems common these days that entertainers are assumed to be great philosophers of our time.

That's a part of being a family, or in more academic terms 'esprit de corp' Sometimes it goes too far, but that's pretty harmless.

67-69 barracuda the main cable should go from the bulkhead through at least two support clips before entering the fusebox.

If the FSM diagram is correct, then in your '69 cigar lighter feed X1 and parking light feed L8 come from the same fuse. The fuse list in the 69 FSM says the same. Turn signals are not fused in '69. Turn signals are on a branch of the switched accessory feed Q2. They all share the feed Q3...

The '69 FSM wiring diagram shows L8 as stop and tail. That labelling is not correct. L8 goes directly to the B2 terminal on the headlight switch. It powers the parking and tail lights, and through the subcircuit starting at the reohstat the instramentation and radio lamp. Stop (brake) lights...

The headlights are a seperate circuit. See here 68 Barracuda Instrument lights not working

Here's an explanation of the headlight switch and how the parking lights relate to the instrument lights, and the dome/interior lamp circuits. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/68-barracuda-instrument-lights-not-working.539461/post-1974282292 Here's a 67 convertible with similar...

You can poke around if you're looking at what is contacting what. Or you can do some diagnosing. Lets start here: Does the headlight switch turn on the dome light? and What does the parking light have in common with the dash instrument lights? -> How did you determine the fuse is good?

Close to where Crow's was. Any of the same people? I know its a long time ago now, but they did good work, and always busy.

To be specific. It knocks the video signal out on my WinPro7 desktop. Sometimes I'll notice slowing in response esp. USB mouse. Anyway lemme log off before trouble occurs

Ammeter reads 40 discharge to 40 amps charge With engine oiff, key off, headlights should show about 10+ amps discharge depending on lamp type and whether parking lights go off with headlights on. Vehicle with H4 lamps and sidemarker lamps...

Aw common guys. I've posted this more than once. Both for diagnosing resistance in a circuit and for planning on loads an alternator needs to be able to supply. Do a search. I can't stay on this website and risk having it crash my system - which

Smog distributor Besides stabilzing the timing at idle rpm, what are you trying do?

How could we know that green was blue? and that tan was connected to J2-16DBL* ? We could only tell you based on the info you provided. You should have enough info now to figure it out. I certainly can't see what you have there.

Basically Yes. Power in ignition 1 (wire J2) and ignition 2 (wire J3) is used to signal the MSD to turn on. Ignition 1 is power to run the engine and that includes the alternator. One branch goes to the regulator so the regulator knows the system voltage. Another branch goes to a field...

I don't k now where what wires have been snipped. Joining the J2 & J3 is fine with an MSD, although not neccessary. My diagram is just a rework of the circuits of interest based on the factory diagram. According to the diagram The ignition feed went to a welded splice. I don't know if that's...

All wires connected to the battery positive are hot even with key off. Alternator output is R6 and that you tell us is connected. Field wires J2 branch and R3 connect to the spade terminals on the alternator. The J2 (blue) comes from a splice in the J2 circuit. R3 must go to the...

Your '72 was a wired with isolated field circuit. Explained here: Identifying Chrysler Alternators (1960-1976)