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Oh I agree, that stuff isn't intended to change the class of fit for two parts, like changing something from a loose slip fit back to the intended press fit. Like I said, good stuff when used as intended but not the right solution for this issue. This falls under "get parts that fit" for me.

Nice work! So you sectioned out the whole inner part of the door where the different brackets are located?

IMHO that’s too loose to “fix” it with loctite compounds. Check the tech specs if that’s how you want to proceed, they typically say how large a tolerance those compounds are meant to take care of. There are a lot of really impressive compounds out there, but they can be very specific to their...

Just because that's what moog sent doesn't make it right. Moog is a hot mess and has been for at least a decade now, getting worse all the time. I think nowadays you're more likely to get a part from Moog that doesn't fit than actually get something that fits properly. The end links that...

It really doesn't look like they sent the right stuff. The goal is to have the sway bar arms parallel to the ground when the car is at ride height. They don't have to be perfect, but the closer the sway bar arms are to parallel the more efficient the bar will be. A small difference isn't a big...

Even with a fast ratio steering box and 275’s up front I really didn’t notice a big increase in steering effort just from the caster itself until I went past +7°. Obviously it still makes some difference below that, but if you compared the difference in effort between say +2° and +4° it really...

The skosh chart specs are basically for manual steering, you can easily add several degrees to all the categories with power steering. I run quite a bit more even with manual steering. I have 16:1 manual steering in my Duster, with 275/35/18's up front, and I still run +6.5°'s of caster. With...

The 10” wheels generally have a better selection of wheels in the right backspace but I really think you need a 1/2” spring offset to make it work. I fit 275’s on my Duster with 17x9’s but they were super tight, on 10’s you’d have to trim and roll the quarters for sure and it would still be...

Are the end links more like a bolt with a sleeve? A lot of the aftermarket kits will have a long bolt for the end link with a sleeve, the intent is you cut the sleeve down to the length you need, then cut the extra threads off of the bolt. Depends on the kit, some come with multiple length...

Probably the sway bar end links, but yeah a picture and year/model would be super helpful

There really aren’t any “Mopar specific” wheels in anything close to those sizes, just aftermarket wheels with generic center bores. As far as hubs, you won’t do much better for the factory spindles. The DoctorDiff aluminum hubs are basically copies of factory BBP hubs minus the rotors. Baer...

So it looks like those Konigs have different hub bores depending on the width of the wheel. The 73.1mm bore will fir over the Mopar hub, but it depends on how thick the wheel is at the mount and how much the hub bore tapers to the wheel cap. The 71.5mm size will need to be opened up. It’s hard...

All the info you need is here... How to ID a Small Block Engine Block: But that's a 1971 318, regular fuel, from the Mound Road plant.

Using something like Slick 50 is good for diagnosing the issue, you spray one joint at a time until you find what’s squeaking. But once you’ve figured out what’s making the noise you either need to use the proper grease, or replace the worn out part. A rubber bushing shouldn’t need any...

This might be a good thread for you to check out… How many CURRENT owners of real '74 360 Duster 4 speed cars on here?

If the squeak was due to poly bushings that haven't been lubricated the spray lubricant would have at least temporarily eliminated/reduced the squeaking. The fact that the spray lubricants didn't at least temporarily solve the issue means either the source didn't get sprayed, or lubrication...

If it's a rubber squeak it probably means a torn bushing. None of the rubber bushings get lubricated, with normal function the rubber doesn't slide or spin on any of the surfaces. The normal suspension movement should just be the rubber flexing one way or the other. So if you have a rubber...

Not with 25 year old rubber bushings he’s not. Rubber bushings from 1999 are smoked even if they just sat on the shelf that long. And if by some miracle the rubber hasn’t completely deteriorated, if it’s a ball joint making that noise then more grease isn’t going to fix it now.

25 years ago? I think you need to reconsider how long you think suspension bushings should last. Even if the mileage is low, rubber oxidizes and deteriorates with time. Sitting is worse than driving. If you’ve greased all the joints that need servicing and it still makes noise, it’s probably...

I ran 225/60/15's on all 4 corners of my Duster for awhile with cop wheels, 15x7 with a 4.25" backspace. Now staggered with 275/35/18's on 18x9's in the front with 295/40/18's in the back on 18x10's.

No problem! Also, it doesn't matter which fender extension and fender trim piece you have with respect to the grille, the '70/71 fender extension and trim works with a '72 grille and the 72 fender extension and trim will work with a '71 grille. All you have to do is match the fender trim piece...

Your '74 may not have had shock absorbing bumper mounts to begin with. What is the build date of your car? If it's from 12/73 through the end of production in July of '74 it most probably never had shock mounts. Only the '74 model year cars built between 8/73 and ~12/73 had shock mounts If...

In the picture the one on the left is from my ‘71, the one on the right would be the ‘72 trim

Ok, so that’s a pretty late production ‘71 that sold after ‘72’s would have also been available. I’m certainly no expert on when Ma Mopar did stuff, a lot of those dates are somewhat flexible based on what was available, what was left over etc. Still, the short trim has to match the fender...

The short trim is a ‘72 model year thing. The trim has to match the fender extension, you can see here that there’s an inset to mount the trim. So your trim needs to match the extension.

No it isn’t. A 225/60/15 is 25.6” tall.

With a 15x7 and only a 3.5” backspace you’re going to have a hard time. I ran 225/60/15’s on a 15x7 with a 4.25” backspace and that was the limit on my Duster. If you have SBP brakes a 225/60/15 might work, but a 235/60/15 isn’t just a width problem, it’s also pretty tall for the front. And I...

Sure, but you’d also have dramatically worse bump steer and a loss of camber gain on compression that also come with using the 2” drop spindles on these cars. I ran MagnumForce drop spindles on my Challenger for awhile before I knew better. The bump steer is noticeable. Not to mention you lose...

The short answer is, no, you can't lower your car any more from where it's at now with the parts you have unless you want your bump stops to be the determining factory of your ride quality instead of your torsion bars. A 1/2" between your bump stop and frame horn, with .92" torsion bars pretty...

The difference in the track widths listed by Wilwood are not due to the spindles, they’re because the Wilwood hub and brake arrangements for the 9” and 10” drum spindles are different. The factory track widths for the 9” and 10” spindles/brakes is the same. The 9” drums use smaller wheel...