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oh, that was a typo. but i'm kinda digging it. Dal the man nocar! comes with a side of naan and jasmine rice!

so noted DalTheMan NoCar

i mean clearly. should we address you as Daniel NoCar. or do you prefer Mr. NoCar?

i'd save the drive unless you were going out there anyway to hang with your friend.

not necessarily zooty, but what was available then at a reasonable cost. it's a basic build, but wouldn't exactly say it was bolt on. https://www.motortrend.com/articles/ccrp-0401-mopar-318-engine/

...engine builders and tuners, but come prepared to back up your claims when you lay down something that is toward the outside of believable. but you want receipts? here ya go: from this *enhance* some of us are fastidious with paperwork. (please disregard the messiness of my "work bench")

*woosh* ^^ that there? that's the sound of everything going over your head. okay, so, we cannot suspend disbelief because of your past levels of chicanery. you can't even keep the story straight or the timeline, well, in line. come up with that parts list and them specs and maybe i see it...

^^ KS got it. don't forget some properly sized washers

when you get into power levels like that the curve of price point flattens considerably. .... unless it's BPO. that ****'s always gonna be a mint no matter. anyway, you'd know that if you ever built anything. but instead you parrot questionable secondhand information from your sister's...

...>"i believe" >three angle valve job w/ a back cut (c'mon you're just regurgitating info here) >truck block, high nickel content, H beam rods (*snerk*) >"i think, i wish i could remember, i don't remember the exact details, i don't know for sure, etc, etc, etc. it don't matter if you got a...

or if you're like me, the first 2K goes into buying a block, and then a crank and rods, then realizing that one or all of that is crap so then you buy better stuff, and you're half way to 6700 before you hit the machine shop and the heads you bought off johnny race gas needs exhaust seats and...

i'm calling shenanigans on that 650hp 406 for 6.7. you'd need nearly half that in heads alone to put down that kinda juice. yeah, maybe he got some deals but two things: one, how long are those questionable parts gonna hang out-- especially if he cheaped out somewhere on something; and B- the...

smart play. hope the rest of the assembly goes swimmingly!

is it sloppy on the shaft or just the key? you could try another key. if it's all bobo then just suck it up and order a decent timing kit from summit and call it done. you might be able to make your case with the supplier and see if they're credit you some dough on the back end. if not, let...

well, yes. maybe they were utilizing their newfound vocab from the word a day that the love of their life got them? idk man, i just kinda work here. i have to wear 15 pieces of flair, it's the minimum.

"adjunct" maybe? as in joined or added? like press fit pins? or maybe "adjust" as in hone the little end of the rod for fit?

i like it. remember to go into it with realistic expectations. everybody wants to build street/strip cars or 400+ horse or whatever and throw hi stall converters around with tall *** gears-- which is fine if that's the kind of driving you want to do and the performance you're looking for...

i'd love to know what those cam grinds were. that torqe curve is impressive, only rolls 25 +/- across but that HP jump off the start where it bumps nearly 100 in 800rpm must be a real kick in the shorts. i can't tell if i'm reading it right, is that 590 hours on the motor?

i love how the pull starts at 5600...

if the motor is in good condition why not throw a cam at it and maybe do some heads or work a little love on the stock units? if you don't have a converter and gears, that would be another area to upgrade. and while i wouldn't say that stuff is cheap, it's an alternative to dropping massive...

machine shop pricing varies wildly depending on location and type of shop. i'm in los angeles and did a stroker last year. the machine shop only handled the machine work on the block, i brought it in disassembled. total ticket was $1855 here's the run down: hot tank & mag the block, bore &...

i think the eddy performer 2177 would be a great mild cam for a 318 with stock (low-ish) compression. a little less aggressive than a stock 340 cam. the thing i don't like is that it's a single pattern cam. however, for the money i think a melling 360 stock cam or a summit white box is a better...

3/4 race cam. tried and true. can't go wrong.

i know, i know. i was just makin' a funny. have a look at his other threads (i think there's three about this now) and you'll notice that *some* of the rockers have adjusters with lock nuts, and some have the interference adjusters. this sordid tale is far from coming to a close.

see post #52

we haven't even gotten to that chapter yet!! way to ruin the surprise!! thanks alot poindexter

look closer... (ideal solution for somebody wanting to up adjustables on a stock hydro set upand reuse their ball end pushrods)

here's the easy button if your call to PRW doesn't pan out: https://www.manciniracing.com/crshroarmads.html note, that's a crane part number... lookie here: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-99802-16 so you may be able to snoop around a bit an unearth some on a dusty shelf or ebay or...

i would 10000000% replace that. and probably have a good look around for the missing chonk.