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24 pole

TF: Kalitta FC: Prock PS: Anderson PSM: Herrera

Extra resistance might make the module 'happier' but it also reduces coil current & voltage; could result in weak spark or no spark.

I would find another flex plate to compare with, it might be bent, flexed once too often......

...piston slap. Wrist pin noise [ worn pin &/or pin bore ] gives a double tap. As long as the rest of the ign curve is altered to suit, running 20* initial is a good idea. Engine will run cooler, use less fuel & have better tip in response. The GM LS engines have a very good combustion...

Maybe the dist giving the problem did not have the correct air gap for the reluctor, 0.006-8".

...known only to Chrys, they did not use man vac adv [ MVA ], instead used the useless PVA. GM used MVA. My 1966 showroom stock Pontiac idled @ 26*: 6* init + 20* MVA; with a very mild cam & 10.75:1. [ Chevs used about 24* ] With more cam & lower CR, vac is reduced & even more timing is needed...

The outer two on the 3 prong are for reverse lights, and the center pin is the NSS. You don't HAVE to use the two reverse ones if your present one (which is on the shifter) works.

Most engines with decent compression don't. But them low compression jobbies need all the help they can get.

First- what are your alignment specs? It matters a bunch for steering feel and play. Second- all worm and ball steering boxes, ALL of them, have an on center dead spot. It is literally part of the construction of the box. Doesn’t matter if it’s Mopar, or Borgeson, PST or Flaming River. Doesn’t...

You need to define "play." And who knows, --who did the work?-- Maybe "somebody forgot to tighten the steering box. So define the play. And then do some troubleshooting. Get someone to help, gently move the wheel, and experiment with how much. Maybe 2", maybe 4" at the top of the...

pm sent

You can set your idle rpm as low as you like, as long as these conditions are met: - if auto trans, engine doesn't stall or become 'edgy' when put into gear - doesn't stall when braking. Obviously keeping idle rpm as low as practicable saves fuel & saves wear/tear going into gear on auto trans car.

All carbs have some shaft play.....for safety so that the throttles do not bind in the open position. It would be odd that the sec shaft is worn more than the pri because obviously the primaries get more use...

The only engine I ever had any pushrod problems was on a big block Chevy. It chewed the ball ends off of one about every few months.

^^^^^Had this on new Harland Sharp rockers. Too brittle. These companies probably buy the fasteners from a common supplier.

How do you tighten it ?

Agreed, I don't have any dull spots on the collectors so I'll try it out on my other set

Try it on a small spot of the collectors that are hidden under the car before doing the whole thing. These are mine and it sucks when you drop a grand on a set for this to happen…. Next set is going to be custom stainless, like the bottoms pic.

Is that a Ford, God forbid? lol

Dang thats a pretty car!!

I tightened up my pst box just a hair and it made a world of difference. I also had slop and everything was new.

Okay, thank you ! That stove top cleaner is a great idea, some of those products work amazingly

I wouldn't use steel wool or 3m/scotchbrite. Use an alumina-containing polish like mothers. Cleaners made for glass stove tops are a more liquid version and should also work very well.

This thing looks pretty straight: 1978 Plymouth volare

I have 2 sets of coated headers, I'll give it a try on my hooker fender well headers. I read on the web and saw photos, I'm not sure if the mother's is the key or if maybe a cleaner wax would work. The other thing I just thought of will be trying a clay bar