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Make sure you post his response here, I haven’t ever really talked about the whole idea and am curious what others might think/know. I am a member of the group, but would be easier to keep track of the info off FB.

Found this one - 56021223AI 1999 Dodge Dakota PL PW 4X4 AT Body Control Module BCM CTM | eBay Listed for a '99 Dakota, but when I google the part number 56021223AI I found a listing for a '97- Ram as well.

I think any Dakota/Durango should work. Maybe even a van or truck, but not sure. If you wanted to add the VTSS functionality, I think it has to be a highline or premium unit and should have had the VTSS enabled before hand. No idea on getting the fob programmed to it if you don't get one with...

I think in order for it to work, it needs to see valid communication and then lose that communication. That's why power has to be on before shorting the network. If it is open, it just waits to see if the network is fixed and whatever it does to disable the no-start logic never happens. Which...

Shorting the network won't hurt the PCM. The network is a loop that goes high and low to created messages and shorting it just means communication on the network can't happen. It's not going to short the PCM and damage anything, it just means the PCM will see a communication issue and log the...

My understand is that the PCM P/N will not tell you anything. The PCM's all come capable of a no-start security setup, but it isn't until they see a VTSS (or whatever) signal that it is activated. The above is from a 2000 Dakota FSM. In this case, the VTSS setup is enabled in the CTM.

I ran across a tip years ago and saved it. The gist of the tip is that if you turn on the vehicle and then short the CCD or PCI bus wires and then turn it off while it is still shorted, the PCM will stop looking for the VTSS message and start. Assuming the vehicle doesn't have VTSS which would...

Or this one COMP Cams 4542-16 COMP Cams Magnum Rocker Arm Studs | Summit Racing

I wonder if this kit would work. COMP Cams 4504-16 COMP Cams Magnum Rocker Arm Studs | Summit Racing

Maybe RaceMagnum.com ?? It's empty though, not even old posts to read through.

I was never able to find much info. Seems like the color is right, but can't say for certain I ever even found a picture so could be I am just fabricating the memory.

I remember hearing about a guy running a turbo'ed Magnum in an early Dakota 4WD. Even launched in 4WD, I guess he was pretty quick. I think his screen name was "Boxcar"? I never crossed paths with him on the internet, but was always curious. Tried to look him up a couple of times and never...

I've got a copy of the instructions for the P5153590 kit for the 360 crate motors but can't get to it right now and can't find a link to post. It would be about the best overview of what needs to remain if you wanted to cut down a harness. I know it will need an ASD relay and fuel pump relay as...

I went from a 318 TBI to a 5.9 SMPI and for me the bottom end torque difference was night and day better. Even pulls a steeper hill in OD without kicking down now. Completely different rig.

Did you do the gasket without the adapter plates? Or in addition to them?

Steel with a Magnum gasket on one side and an LA gasket on the other. They aren’t gaskets themselves.

Based on those pictures, I would say they do not have enough meat to seal a 340 exhaust manifold. I tried to find a picture of an early Magnum head that had enough meat and came up blank. I know my buddy had a set when I was doing my swap, but guessing they are an early set only because...

The problem is the bottom of the port. That line at the top of the gasket port is the bottom of the cylinder head. There isn't any material there to squish the gasket and create a seal. Some Magnum heads drop down further, mine and the OP's did not.

SendCutSend can cut stuff for you. I have a pattern I gave someone here recently for this exact reason. Can't promise it is a perfect fix, I have the same problem (Magnum R/T heads with 340 manifolds) and my adapter plates seem to be ok. But I have leaks I haven't identified so it could be...

Personal opinion, hard to beat an 8HP70 or similar for a drag and drive event. As mentioned, built in transbrake, plus wicked fast shifts and more steps from first to 1:1 (6th) to keep the motor in the power band. Plus, after all is said and done, throw it in drive and cruise at 1500 rpm or...

Great info. What other modules were you hoping to run? Looks like the Holley dual sync distributor is another option, too. This guy has a pretty good video on setting up a Terminator X system on a Magnum.

Lot's of comments on the MS3 stuff if you search. Here are a couple of threads, might search on their screen names and see what else they have said. MS3 Pro Sequential Injection + Coil near plug conversion thread Anyone else using MegaSquirt on a LA motor? LA sequential fuel and spark EFI...

Other thing different is EGR. The ‘95 will have it but the ‘02 won’t as it went away when OBD2 was introduced. So you will need to use your intake and exhaust manifolds from the ‘02. I put a ‘98 5.9 in my ‘91 Dakota using a ‘92 harness and PCM. No issues or missing holes. Treat it like you...

Something else to keep in mind is the injectors. No idea if a ‘92 Dakota with a return style fuel system used a different sized injector than a ‘94 Dakota with a “returnless” system. I would look them up on RockAuto to check. Not saying it is why the motor won’t start, just something to keep...

The only real difference is the “returnless” style expects a constant fuel pressure while the return style with a FPR on the rail had a variable pressure depending on the amount of vacuum. And the PCM‘s were tuned to match. So if you run a PCM that used a “returnless” style, just leave the...

I swapped a 5.9 Magnum in the place of my ‘91 318 TBI motor in my Dakota and used the same pump and tank. I checked the part numbers and they interchanged. The pump doesn’t have the FPR on it so pressure is controlled at the rail or TBI, and adjusted accordingly. There are issues though...

That's exactly what I was referring to in regards to belt routing. I think that is the source of your noise. Not enough belt wrap on the water pump pulley.

Just didn’t want to assume. I have seen one setup once with no AC and no PS. They came off the alt wrapped the water pump on the back side of the belt and down to the crank pulley then back up to the tensioner. Looked like it had about a 1/4 or less of the water pump pulley making contact...

Definitely looks DIY to me. And it doesn't look like the end of the bottom bolt, at the head of the bolt, is supported. If so, I wonder if the mount is flexing and causing some misalignment or loss of belt tension resulting in the squeal. At the very least, I would dump that and find either a...

Very nice!! Looks like a great solution.