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$389.00 :-) I've got two sets of beat up ones. If only I could find a good righty

lol he wants a funny car

I have seat covers on my 65 mustang convertible... 20k miles in the last 10yrs... no fading. And half of those miles are top down. Something is wrong. BTW... I also put in new carpeting 10yrs ago... thats faded, but not my seat covers. I don't know how that helps but if I paid 2k, I'd call...

ohhh ohhh I learned something too.... "Go wing has the sharper turn downs and is the same as Mustang wings of the same period. Gull-wings came out in 71 and are thinner and have swept-back ends instead of angular turn down ends"

Its an interesting idea. I could see doing it on the rockers and the lower panels of my toy. But I've seen this in person on off road trucks, I think its hideous. It made the entire truck look cheap (no offense to anyone intended). I believe the victum I saw was a early 80's chevy suv with...

update?

Other than the mustang'esqu side scoops I think I like this car.

Sell or trade the tires separate from the rims? I'm running 5.5 on 5 lug. Any plugs or weather cracking, bead issues? I don't see any but figure I'd ask anyways. Also take any trades? I got laptops and color laser printers. And if any of this works, I can arrange to get them shipped to me...

Well... when your just using the body of a dart on a truck chassis... you have to expect truck parts :p

Looks like to me, your car already has the right stance. I would get some 15 x 7 wheels (ask others for your correct backspacing), and 225/60/15 tires. If you have the right backspacing, they'll fit great, look good, and improve handling without messing up the ride. I don't think you need to...

Your's have to be better than mine, I have tears in the aluminum in places, as well as nicks n stuff. You might contact Lee Robinson, he's on the forumns here. If the part isn't one year only then its possible he might have some daily driver quality ones that might be better than what you have.

The gas pedal is the original 6cylinder that I modified to work with the v8 linkage. I think that the pedals might be original just because why else would you cut a pedal in half and reweld it.

Would it matter that I'm using a 1974 power wagon dual master cylinder and its power drum booster? I'm guessing it wouldn't matter. I think these rods just rest against the diaphram in the master cylinder.

Nope I'm running a 4spd. I'd rather have an auto behind my 318, but.... it aint broke, so it stays for now. So with these pushrods/brake master cylinder plungers... can I buy a new one or do I take my current rod to a shop and have them modify it? I don't know anyone with a welder that is local.

I'm guessing its not original, and pretty hacked up to get in there too.

There is no power at rest. The brake pedal wire has power, but thats because the brake switch is not making contact with the brake pedal, which would interrupt the circuit. So other than that, its all dead :p I very much appreciate your help. And this is a very definite hack job that's going to...

I learned something here. I think the fix to the adapter bracket is to take the plunger out and shorten it by a couple inches and then put it back in, and hook the brake pedal up the correct original way. This won't make the brake switch any closer. But overall this is probably the better way to...

I haven't spliced it yet. I'm realizing that my brake pedal doesn't contact my brake switch sensor when its at rest. So if I can't turn off my brake lights, connecting them will cause my battery to drain. I want to solve this issue.

First, I can't be sure I have a correct 1965 dart pedal assembly. Its a hack job under the dash, I'll probably need professional help sooner or later, but... here's what I got. I'm working on electrical and seems like I'm hitting lots of snags. I wanted to get my brake lights to work. There...

Well let him know, you have a thread started here with lots of interested people. I am a fan of fiberglass (it doesn't rust out!). (my dart is all steel and duct tape though).

Are you calling them during business hours?

Maybe related to that, I am missing the final pigtail to the right rear lamp, and the key was not in the ignition. But I would think with the ignition off, there should be no power except to the horn, hazard and light (because those typically work whether the key is in or not). BTW I'm...

The brown wire of the 65 harness shows 12 volts when I test it. That's not a good thing right? Shouldn't they all have power?

I know its a year old. I'm kinda looking around for tailights... last time I went looking was oh like 9 months ago and didn't find anything then either. I'm glad I'm not looking for candy canes, I have two sets... crappy and terrible.

Are Taillight Available?

Ok so I found the 74 wiring diagram. . White = Stop Lamp Dark Green = Right Rear (TS?) Yellow / Black = Left Rear (TS?) Red = Turn Signal Dark Blue - NOT DEFINED, its on the harness, but not on the receiving dash harness, so I guess not used by dodge trucks. Light Green = Right Front(TS?)...

I just realized as I was putting electrical together that I have a grand total of 5 inner taillights... WTF I have no outer taillights?! Anyhow, looking for driver quality. Also looking for: Headliner (black preferred) Door Panels that aren't warped, rear passenger panels that aren't...

Hey 67... I let myself get overwhelmed with seeing two wireing harnesses coming out of the steering wheel. I can figure out which one belongs to the ignition and I can cut that one off. I'm using the dart ignition right now and see no reason to hook up the other one. So now I'm down to one...

Thank you both for the electrical diagram. That helped a ton. And now I know why I failed electronics 101. The the headlights aren't wired to the fuel sending unit... The fuel sending unit is grounded at some point and completed the circuit. I have 3 out of 4 taillights working now, I'm...