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Ok, so I and others (probably after too many beers) have toyed with the idea of building a high rpm, high HP small block to compete in FAST. The idea being it softens the launch and really comes alive down track, (and might allow for some high end converter magic) but the foundation for a build...

No, I run some other style of events and run them in those. There is a nice group around me called no drama, a pro tree bracket class that is fun. I have run the 7.0 class in NO PREP KINGS in the past, might run a Sickweek event in the future. The do work well though, converter doesn’t let me...

I log AFR, throttle position, g force, rpm, driveline rpm, daisy chaining off an Innovate Motorsport AFR with their interface. No budget, so it was NOT a plug and play deal, but I’m about $500 into it counting everything, sensors, driveshaft collar.

You can get it to work pretty easy. Might want a dropped base to give you a bit more room. It also changes the throttle cable/kick down setup. There is an aftermarket taller bracket.

Are you saying it was leaking here? How deep are those imperfections?

I can’t make a cam recommendation, I’m only smart enough to know I have no business doing it. The process of picking one, sure, nail down EVERYTHING else about your build. Head flow, intake, CI, stroke, approx weight of car, rear gear, rear tire size, fuel, static compression, rocker ratio...

or, put a 4” crank in your current or the newly bought 340 and at that point it still says 340 on the side of the block. Then you will have a healthy 340 AND a stroked 340. A rotating kit for a 4” crank is $3300ish from Molnar? Page 2 or 3 of engine parts for sale.

To see what the port match is you can get one of the better bore scopes. Stole those photos……..:):):)

Why are you pulling the heads? If you place the intake on without gaskets, BOTH sides look like the picture? With it sitting on the china wall? If it were mine, I would put new gaskets in place and set it on. Take a feeler gauge and measure the china wall gap. Then space the china wall up and...

like you said, you really want the headers floating free. I just jack it up and slip a block of wood between the motor mount and the K frame. I also open the block drains, keeps water out of the cylinders when you pull the head. They are heavy so have a plan where you are going to put it after...

Valve cover is leaking, the crud on the one plug is collecting on oil, but not enough to be a quart every 100 miles. Leak down test, everything else is just guessing. My guess, stuck or sticky ring from sitting.

So, I think you are asking it the 4:56 would hurt the longevity of the 408 more than the 340 you have been running. I have 60,000+ miles and 1000’s of passes on my 4” stroked 360. Went through it in 2016, bearings, rings, pistons(compression bump). Only needed a dingle ball hone. I spin mine to...

I can’t remember, been a while since I played with a Holley, but it might have a small wire clip that attaches to the float arm. It “should” pull the needle out of the seat. The clip might be off. I would want to look at it, if there is something off with the needle and seat it can go the other...

Lightly tap the adjuster. See if the needle is stuck, but it is no big deal to get in there. Get a set of new gaskets, the re-useable ones. I used to just pull the carb off and turn it upside down over a tray. Easier to play with it on the bench.

What did you use for a head flow number? To the OP, I would not put a hydraulic roller in it. Solid, the maintenance is so overstated, check it once a year and you’re done. It’s like a physical for your engine. You choose a roller so you can snap the valve open to a useable lift quicker, but...

Be careful when you jack up the motor. My distributor cap gets pretty close to the firewall. I just remove the cap, also if the fan is still on it. Watch the fan shroud, the fan might hit it. What’s the oil look like?

I would definitely look into that.

appearing, started out stock castings.

It runs 10.30’s, so as serious as you can get starting with stock castings.

He has no friends……:):):):):)

Can you kill it by screwing the idle mixture screws all the way in? Does it respond at all to changes to the mixture screws? Barely snug. If not, it’s getting fuel from somewhere else. Float level? What is the fuel pressure? Is fuel dripping out of the boosters? Dripping out of the accelerator...

I have heard many really smart people say adding one was one of the best things they have done to their cars. From altered wheel based nose 3’ in the air to a good number of FAST cars. I don’t currently have one in my car, but will, just working on how to package it/hide it and deciding on...

I would strip it ASAP. Get the rust out of it and grease it up. Every day water is sitting in it, the block, heads get closer to being door stops. Clean it all.

What carb is it exactly, part number. So you can see if it supposed to have screw in bleeds. The quality control was so bad, getting one where they skipped installing the air bleeds isn’t out of the question. Good design, but put together by a blind ham fisted monkey! When I was playing with...

Not that I know of, I run a trickflow with 1968 bolt on scale with timing tape.

Looking at pictures for a speed demon 750 online. It looks to have screw in air bleeds that are not present in your picture. If you have them, put them back in as they were, you have to be pretty far down the tuning trail before you start playing with air bleeds. I would put the carb back to...

So, are those bleed holes threaded? What is the history of the carb? I had a mighty demon 825 that worked well after pulling it apart and cleaning all the metal slivers out of it. It was a new carb. Quality control sucked at demon for a good bit. All my screw in air bleed slots were stripped...

Very good!

I do ambient temp cure, the Easy Composite video guy uses PETG. Oven cure absolutely.

Started toying with the idea of making an air cleaner assembly. The issue with the original un-silenced 340 air cleaner is I out flowed it’s capability. I had to skeletonized a base to get enough air flow. The original housing only had about 1/2” gap at the bottom. My plan is to make one out of...