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Well just sayin' but you don't actually have to move it somewhere to get a good ground. Those can be problematic because of the paint/ coating. I don't know whether it's really high quality paint (epoxy?) or powder coat, or what, but they MUST be scraped to metal to get grounded. I am...

Thanks for coming back and letting us know. This is also why manuals are important, and finding out "what all" is on each fuse.

I just hold a house fire ever so often, the heat melts that "frozen white ****" right off.............

Normally when you have these symptoms AND NO headlights, it is a problem in the most basic supply circuit, the ammeter circuit. Review the MAD article and especially the simplified diagram: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml Follow along in the diagram...

Is this the sender pin? Frankly I would recommend you learn how to solder. Too bad you are not "here." Anyhow, if it is the sender, that pin goes direct to the sender stud on the gauge. You COULD clip the wire back from the connector, but a butt splice on a short pigtail, and bolt...

ANY VR that is NOT "1 wire" is/ may be superior, if properly wired, for voltage regulation. This is because a properly set up modern VR with a dedicated sense wire is far more accurate for sensing

THANKS!!!

Has someone been fiddling with the wiring that you know of? Are you sure it previously worked OK? The dash indicators are dead nuts simple. The tap off the front lamps feeds, probably either at the TS switch connector or at the bulkhead connector, and simply feed up to the cluster...

Everybody says Denso, Joe, but what do you actually ASK for? What are these typically off of? -- application?

You can IF you can get the clamps on there, but that is not the normal use. What you need to do is get the problem "showing" (engine hot) and measure battery voltage or rather voltage right at the starter as the starter is trying to crank. Then apply the load tester and draw the...

Whatever drop you measure in the harness from the battery + to the VR IGN (EG 1.5) will be ADDED to a properly working VR, AKA 13.8 + 1.5 the battery will see 15.3 Whatever you measure in the ground test will be added to THAT

I have written hundreds on this. Maybe more. Voltage drop in the harness, terminals/ connectors and switch, and sometimes the ground circuit To check, turn key to "run" engine stopped. Stab one probe into the top of the POS battery post and the other as close to the VR IGN terminal...

You can always copy the Wagon Queen Family Truxter..............

After deburring it best you can, if it still won't "come" get a scrap of 2X6, etc, and slam the nose of the shaft down on it vertically

I guess you didn't read what I posted in the other thread. WHERE did you get this diagram? I posted one out of a 68 Plymouth manual, the Barracuda inst panel, that I'd downloaded from MyMopar There is no switch that needs a ground, unless it is some sort of lighting, or anti theft...

Be aware of the caveats. You MUST greatly oversize the charge wire on a "1 wire" in order to have decent voltage regulation. This is because the VR sensing is on the charge wire--the only wire, and voltage drop in that wire will play a part. I do not see a practical way to use one...

Normally you can get more light out of the same wattage filament by using a larger reflector. I discovered this way way back when we used landing lights. 4537's used to be less than 4 bucks in the 70's, and you could modify them (PAR46) to fit quad lamp setups. There were 3 similar...

Just use a piston stop to check TDC. That way you KNOW. You can check the degree markings, if you don't have a degree wheel, by carefully measuring around the balancer with a flexible tape, than calculate the distance vs degrees I've marked several unmarked balancers, not that hard

I am pretty sure you are incorrect on this statement. I just looked up the 68 and 69 manuals which I downloaded from MyMopar and they match, and they match what Mattox posted above. Were you maybe viewing the connector from the wrong end? These are laid out as if looking at the switch...

That will not work here. You need a variable load tester so that you can match the voltage which the starter pulls down to in order to read the starter current

So what is dim? Are the actual signals dim, or the cluster indicators? I would guess cluster grounding. They are "poorly" grounded through the mounting screws. Does yours have two PC boards in the cluster? I would remove it, go through and loosen/ tighten/ loosen tighten PC board...

Actually the trunk light should have nothing to do with it.

That looks like a LOT of slop

EDIT.........AFTER doing what Steve said above (OldmanMopar) The FIRST thing you must do is to determine whether the 1...battery is defective, whether the 2...starter is drawing over-amps and pulling the battery down, or whether it is 3...simply voltage drop. EG Voltage drop...

If you are trying to be "restore" accurate, you have to be careful. It may be (not sure, just as EG) that some CA vehicles had different dist's than federally and also for different options. Some long about 70 / later had the electric retard on the vacuum advance.

The facts are these, and we've joked about this. One member used to say, "the gear could point to China." You COULD do this: 1 Throw the gear in any old way 2 Throw the dist in either way 3 Pull no1 plug. Stick your finger in, bump the engine to find compression. When you JUST...

That sounds like the black ammeter wire. I would also be checking the ammeter for heat damage, loose connections, as well as the terminals in the bulkhead connector. That entire ammeter circuit can be a problem

Actually the wire from the ignition switch to the relay COULD be quite small. That is a relay, and the yellow "start" wire simply activates the coil. The wire from the relay to the solenoid is a different story.

If you do not have a 74 service manual, send me a PM ("conversation") I have on digital I can copy, but you will need to mail me a thumb drive and return mailer.

"Normal." No, it's not. It's a feedback loop in the wiring/ connections causing a cycling event. If you are using an old electro-mechanicall regulator, and it is not in the harness, then it's the VR out of adjustment, or needs replaced.