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The "real" part number is cast into the housing near the fake printed one. I see two wires. This early alternator can be run with either one or two wire regulators if the proper brushes are used. Repair parts are almost impossible to find now , so if bad, buy yourself a complete good one.

Red= power, Orange= light.

It would be interesting to put that in boiling water and measure again.

Headlight grounds are on the radiator support.

Switch, fuse.

Alternator should be putting out about 14.4, you are low. Do you have a square back alternator with electronic VR? This should work well at idle. Sometimes we can cheat a bit by turning up the idle a little.

Bad picture. No color code? More info.

This is a over-the-counter unit , not available in a factory car. Made by Dixco. Check their wiring.

Pictures.

Is there a question?

They make a great wall hanger.

You have loose wires touching the starter circuit.

Have you tried just disconnecting the tach?

In no particular order the things that I would suspect for an intermittent problem would be- ECU, resistor, coil.

You have either a bad battery or starter. Cranking voltage should never be below 10 volts. Check battery first. Charge battery fully. Load test battery, this simulates how the battery reacts to the starter running. If the voltage drops below 10v then the battery is failing under load. If the...

The whole cluster gets 12v. The limiter knocks down the voltage to the gauges to 5v. Power up the cluster and the input to the limiter should be 12v while the output and voltage at the gauges should be 5v. This is true wether you have a standard dash or a rally dash. On a rally dash the limiter...

I use any ignition dielectric grease on all connectors, fuses and light bulbs. Also use lightly on spark plug boots to make them easy to remove.

A bad T/S is a common problem. Both brake lights must go through the T/S switch. While stepping on the brake pedal, try wiggling the T/S lever and see if it comes on.

If bearings diodes and brushes are your only concern, they are available. The rest are not.

Many parts for rebuilding are not available. It is best to buy an alternator already rebuilt that has all the good parts in it and is guaranteed.

Need a picture of your printed circuit board. There should be three slots where the IVR plugs in.

Follow the red wire.

There are none.

Originally green and yellow caps were rated differently but were same outside dimensions. The red cap was higher rating and physically larger. Now- the difference between green and yellow caps are only the color of the caps. This allows me to select which color cap came originally on my car...

I have extended the tip with wire and solder.

Much like people.

New ones are cheap and cleaner on the inside.

Random thoughts. The IVR in the gas gauge may be behaving inconsistently. Have you confirmed that the gauge cluster is grounded to the body? You may have two problems, fuel sending unit (chinesium) and temp sender ( taped threads?) I tend to think that your new fuel sender is bad because you can...

Right rear intake bolt to firewall hole just for the ground wire, just to the left of heater motor bolts.

Numbers are on the top, near the outlet terminal.