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That's not really how it works.... Modern engines, my foot. (other than that, DemonX2 is 100% right). The key was never designed to carry load, ever. The sprocket bolt that clamps the cam sprocket to the cam is what makes the spinny-magic happen. The clamp load from sprocket to cam is what...

That's how the old MP manuals said to do it, if memory serves. And as RRR mentioned, degree first, then order your key.

I've seen little blue or green condoms that go over instrument bulbs for back light color on some cars, but I don't recall seeing that on Mopars. Someone more knowledgeable will be along to expand or correct this.

This. I've found out months after the fact that they've responded, but I didn't know because they didn't quote or PM me. So, technically I'm guilty.

The bulbs were always white/uncovered. There might be tape over the turn signal markers depending if the original car had fender mounted indicators.

Got any close-up photos of the synchro teeth? What I used to think of as 'good enough' turned out to be way bad.

You working on an '06 Charger or a '73 Super Beetle?

Were these ever offered in Polyurethane, or are y'all running the Moogs?

About $200 if I'm not mistaken.

I just want to say Bravo to you, OP, for looking up the specs. So many 'mechanics' these days can't/won't do that, and that's the hallmark of a conscientious worker.

That's a reverse gear with the chipped teeth. I'm no expert but I don't think I'd sweat that. How are the synchro teeth on the gears?

Whereabouts in Kansas? That's a big state....

Just don't ever drive it and park it indoors with a dehumidifier.

I smell....not a fart....but it's a similar odeur.... It's a familiar smell....like milk left in a bowl in the hot sun... Or maybe some cabbage you forgot about in the back of the crisper drawer..... I smell a thread de-railin'.......

It'll get better, man. I promise.

I'm just here for the green-bearing slap-fights. For some reason, the Ford forums don't have those.

7/16"? I forgot about that. Do what's necessary to use the 1/2" stuff that's been used for the last fifty years.

They're all forged, 100%.

Shoulda called the fella with the Vette radiator. Knowing how often Chevy cross-fits parts, it might've been the same as the one you needed for the pickup

That doesn't impact the shear load on those lug studs that much, but remember, the longer the spacer, the more tension is applied to the lug studs. On the factory setup, the shear is transmitted a little bit through the center register and primarily through the clamped face between wheel and...

It passed!

I knew the hinge notch should have been deeper, but I listened to the saw pros for the first time ever and was in a hurry so I didn't listen to myself or think it through the million times I usually do. That elm was 24" in diameter at the trunk. I'm not upset. It missed the house, garage, and...

It's probably the previous owner over tightening the studs or the hood flex causing the studs to break. Those scoops just don't catch enough air to break those studs and if they did catch of ton of air, it'd rip the studs from the air scoop first. I mean, that's a great car and I'm sure it's...

Do my eyes deceive me, or does that Pro-Stock intake have EGR?

40 year old low-grade parts are probably still better quality than the Chinese stuff on the market today....

Odd, one very similarly worn just appeared on this site like a week ago. The consensus then was 'run it!'. Most of the force will be on the ring gear side. I would run it, especially on a street car.

This is why I'm a 'rust' and 'bondo' man. That **** never changes.

Whenever I see that "US Seller/US Stock" crap, I know it's the cheapest Chinesium **** to hit the market, and those part numbers are probably copied from whatever they copied to make that thing. If it goes south and locks up while you're cruising, you swap ends. I don't need a trashed axle due...

That's sharp! How did you texture the grind marks?

That Belzona stuff is probably just as valid as JB Weld (I'd like to know what the differences are). I'm not sure how epoxy would hold up against fuel over time. Maybe plain old plumbing solder? Water pressure in pipes is typically 55+psi, over a hundred if you don't have an expansion tank...