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No, Fram has always been junk. I've seen cut apart ones LONG before that, probably the first were mag articles in the early 70's, and first hand with a Wix rep cutting open several about 74-75

Long ago and far away, in the mid 70's, I put a !!!!!!!! 360 !!!!!! into what used to be my 440-6 RoadRunner, and put the 340 that I HAD swapped into it into my old Toyota FJ40 RR. Obviously, this is long before Al Gore invented the internet, and in the back woods of N Idaho. I...

You better read what you typed, I'm like, "whut?"

If you are talking about the rear "half moon," no 273/ 318/ 340 pans have the larger cutout, about the same size both ends. The 360 is smaller.

Be careful screwing around with pans. Especially some of the knock off replacements, (I think Milodon?) interfere with some performance oil pumps Make sure you check that. It is possible for the rear of the pan to stress the pump and crack the casting.

If they look OK, and with all the troubles lately with cam and lifters, I would just put it together AS IF IT WAS the first time and break it in all over again, just as you were just starting out. Don't forget break in cam lube, Z oil additive, etc.

How 'bout this? Any possibility that you have a block WITH A COUPLE OF OVERSIZE LIFTER BORES?

The one that is INSIDE the block back by the dist you can see by removing the dist. and looking down in. We had one member that claimed he installed a missing one through the dist. hole. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/340-oil-galley-plugs.377270/

As far as I know the "big mistakes" for oil plugs are the two up front where the lifter galleys terminate, the screw in one INSIDE the block back by the dist, and then the little tiny one up in above the oil pump. I too do not remember the dimension anymore. See if I can find it...

Also the oil is cold and if you used a pre lube grease on the bearings they will be pretty well "sealed" at that point. And what Rusty was saying with drill motor speed. The drill RPM is equal to the engine running at 2x that RPM.

I don't know how in hell any of you even know how to answer. Is this a SB or B/RB or is it even a Mopar?

1...Drain. Start with a 12V test lamp. Disconnect battery ground, and put the lamp between battery post and ground. Does it light? Check everything imaginable. Is lighter pulled out, glove box lamp out, trunk light? Then move to your multimeter, put that in series on the high amps...

A voltmeter AT THE battery will tell you that as well. That is part of the reason I emphasize voltage checks. Crank the engine cold and hot, with your probes stuck into the tops of the battery posts. If the battery is known to be charged, and the voltage sags anywhere near 10V or...

By the way with that much drop, I'd start by feeling around the cable connections for "warm." Could even just be a dirty battery clamp at the posts

You have to check and find out!!! Voltage drop is just like a diagram---follows a road, follows a road map. If you hit a chuckhole (bad connection at a terminal) that is a drop right at the terminal. If you hit a narrow road (long length of wire) that is drop over a distance/ length of...

THIS. You MUST test under load "cranking." That is the way voltage drop works. If you can't measure the battery in the trunk by yourself, "rig" some wire from the meter up front to the battery. Use your head. You can use an extension cord, EG example: Get an extension long...

Tim where did you get that chart? There are all kinds of them, and "some disagreement" LOL. AC ampacity is not to be used for automotive. Also, FOOTAGE of the total wire matters I'm not claiming this website is more accurate, but quite different results...

Yeh the points or pickup is what triggers the spark. The rotor is not really a great index, although you can certainly get it close enough to fire.

Sounds like you have the right idea BUT.......... Do you understand about "compression stroke?" You must get no1 on compression. Pull no1 plug, bump engine, with your finger in no1 hole, and feel for compression. Then as it "starts to" compress, look for the marks and bring them up...

I would do the following 1...Install some sort of method to get an accurate voltmeter on the block and starter stud, so you can measure batt V while cranking. One way is to simply get a couple of no 14 or smaller wire size eyelets with 3/8 eyes, get some scrap wire any size, 18-14...

I am somewhat dismayed by some of the comments here. Some folks might read these and conclude that mopar alternators bad, "1 wire" magically good." I owned my first 69 RR in 1970 for a short time, then my 70 in about early 72. By about 75 or 6 I had a clapped out 64 FJ-40 Landcruiser...

The oil pressure tapping goes all the way down through the engine and out the bottom, with another branch gallery meeting it. There's a small cup plug has to be up in there to separate the two. Discussion of that area...

Actually, it doesn't--or didn't. The original Delco integrals back in the day were 3 wire, just like Mopar. And I'll poke in my usual warning: DO NOT stick a huge, great big, not to mention quite large "one wire" on there without properly sizing the charge wire, and that means either...

OK let's go through this again The ignition switch has B for BATTERY and that is the ONLY power going into the switch The ACC (accessory) output feeds out to the buss in the fuse box for acessories and is hot in BOTH "run" and "acc" and is cold in "start." The S START...

I explained it to you if you read my post. The key in the start position, completely changes the circuit.

...........And please,...........PLEASE.........do not call a "poly" engine a "wide block."

You may have somehow developed reverse polarity in the distributor pickup circuit. AKA if you reverse the two pickup wires, this changes the timing relative to where the rotor is pointing to the cap contacts. This has become known as "rotor phasing." You can search that phrase, there are...

The water pump thing tells you nothing, except that the engine is presently equipped with the earlier pump setup. They made 340s like that as well I always start with the numbers on the block under the driver side head parting line, as mentioned above. If that does not resolve the issue...

That is a bit difficult IF THE ENGINE IS IN THE CAR LOLOL

I don't think there was such a thing as "untrue" double rollers before the chinese came along.