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I thought you guys might like a couple pics. It's a 1935 McCormick Deering W30.

Thanks for the thoughts. Great idea about a bilge pump. Unfortunately no one local has one in stock. Yes, I did think about just replenishing as it loses but I was concerned about introducing cold water into the system with the engine hot. I hadn't considered the pump losing prime, but yes, my...

I'm hoping someone else might used one of these to pump water. I can get a 12 volt pump for $25 and need it to live for maybe 2 hours. The pump instructions all say the oil being pumped is what keeps the pump lubricated. I'm trying some backwoods engineering to run an antique tractor in a...

Thanks Rusty. He was one of a kind. Typical of those alive during the depression, nothing was ever thrown away. He was still mowing his own yard at 96.

I figure most of you are like me and appreciate about anything with an engine, especially if it's old. Here's a few pics of my grandpa's 1935 McCormick Deering W30. He passed away earlier this year at the age of 97. We don't know for sure when he got this but know he had it in 1976 when he...

Those are what I just bought so that is good to hear.

Just an update for anyone stumbling on this post later. The car running better is definitely not in my head. I don't generally run it too hard but decided to do a little testing Monday afternoon. It actually will break loose the right rear punching it from a 10-15 mph roll and it will burn the...

Thanks 72bluNblu for the great tips on the caps. Something else I thought of is, be gentle on your brake light switch during surgery. I managed to bend the mounting bracket on mine as they're not particularly stout. You obviously will have to adjust it higher after conversion. Mine was hitting...

@70SwingerGuy Another detail I just thought of is that your brake pedal height will likely be higher than it was with power brakes after conversion. It took me a few times driving my car to get used to the higher pedal. I had a thread in the brake forum where I was assured that was normal...

Yes, that's the one in 15/16 bore.

No problem, if you have any other questions, feel free to ask. I'm just regurgitating the info I've stolen from others on here. It would be hard to convince me that there's a more knowledgeable group of people anywhere. FABO has become my go-to for even non-Mopar info. It seems that, no matter...

FWIW, the consensus I found was to use a 15/16 bore rather than factory 1 1/32 when going to manual brakes, at least for my 73. I assume that would also apply to a 70. I purchased a 2 bolt master and adapter plate from Dr Diff and I already had a manual pushrod from the original non-power 4...

It actually is no worse than stock on the low end, at least at part throttle, and midrange power is much improved. Idles at 650-700 with 18" of vacuum. I seldom really lay into it and it would probably run about as well with the stock cam but I'm pretty happy with how it runs. I've got a 3.55...

That's one of the funny things. I don't notice much difference at all in idle quality. It always seemed to be running well before but maybe a little weak. I had just decided I was expecting too much but it never felt as strong as other 318's I've had. it honestly feels like I put the missing...

I know you're just joking but I notice every little tick, rattle, vibration, etc way more if my wife is with me.

I assume you're being serious. That is an odd one.

Yeah, I can actually see the bulkhead connectors now.

Nothing but remove the booster, install the new master, and bleed the brakes. From day one with that rebuilt booster, the brakes were super touchy. I'm wondering if it was ever right.

Apologies for the format of the above. It looked good on my phone before I posted.

I wasn't sure which sub-forum this belongs in but here goes. I finished converting from power disc/drum to manual a few weeks ago and love the manual brake feel. I also installed a new 15/16 master from Dr Diff. Car is a 73 Duster with a 74 318 smogger with Summit K6900 cam, Performer intake...

This is good info to know. I was just assuming that I would have issues with replacement rotors like occur with many other products these days. I'm definitely going with something more aggressive than I had planned to. Thanks again to all for the recommendations.

Just to update for anyone viewing this thread in the future, my pedal height is already a little lower than the pics Dana67Dart posted by approximately a 1/4". I'll just have to reprogram my foot. I'm already getting used to the higher pedal after driving it a couple of times.

I'll second adding a sway bar for better handling. My Duster with wore out front suspension and shocks still drove like a different car with the addition of a front sway bar.

I'm probably weird but my car still has what I assume are the original rotors from my donor car which only had 38000 miles on it. Even if they are replacements, they are at least 20 years old. I figure that their quality is probably better than anything that I would buy now so I would like to...

I just finished converting my car from power disc/drum to manual disc/drum brakes. It is already much better to drive with the brakes not being so touchy but I think I can improve it more with new pads in front. The ones on the car were swapped over from my donor car probably 15 years ago...

That's a very good point. I probably should try to just get used to it as it sounds like it's how they were when new.

Ok, I assumed it was normal. Thanks for the measurements. I'll check it out for comparison tomorrow. If I can't get used to it, I think I'll probably make a shim to space the master away from the firewall to lower the pedal a little.

Hey guys. I finally got a chance to install the Dr. Diff 15/16" 2 bolt master today and I'm wondering what the normal brake pedal height is for manual disc/drum brakes. With the power brakes, I could pivot on my heel back and forth from brake to gas and now I have to slide my foot back to not...

Rockers are gone and the rear wheel openings are starting to show above the factory flares but it doesn't really bother me. It's still solid as can be underneath and Illinois winters eat anything nice after several years anyway. I bought it in 2011 for $6300 with 104000 miles on it as I wanted...

Several years ago, my 2005 GMC truck would be going down the road and just shut off like you killed the ignition with no codes. It usually would then be able to be restarted immediately. It gradually started happening more frequently as I checked fuel pump pressure, etc. It would always start...