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I used to work the wiper switch back and forth to get my reverse lights to work, when the wipers came on the reverse lights would work.

$1,500, buyer pays shipping from NY. This setup is not light, if shipping is a deal breaker this may not be for you. Will not separate. Weiand 3581408 Tunnel Ram Intake for Mopar B Engines 350, 361, 383, 400 Hilborn-Style Hood Scoop: SUM-G3008 2 Holley 600 Vacuum Secondary Carbs: LIST 1850-3...

My 1964 Nova SS, I stripped this to the bare metal, spray guns, expensive primer and paint, the whole nine yards. I recall priming and wet sanding multiple times, got it darn near perfect. Replaced the front fenders, the rest of the car was original rust free, had it's share of dings, but...

Nice! I'm working in the rain today, just can't fit around this thing to get stuff done in the garage.

DA with 80 did absolutely nothing, it needed the Bauer 9000.

Good or bad, love it or hate it, this is getting rattle can primer/paint. Once it gets some dignity back in the looks department, two tone color, trim, emblems, mirrors, etc., it needs everything else to make it roadworthy and safe. It's the everything else I want to spend the time, energy, and...

I have a 67. The vent tube runs into the framerail. It's purpose is to let air in as gas is consumed, (and let air out as gas is pumped into the tank, if you ram the pump into the tube and and eventually pull back a little when you're tired of it shutting off automatically). After filling the...

Everyday is Tunnel Ram Day!

Dual Quad Inline Linkage - Homemade

62 b-body 318 poly mounts.

Hunt's Machine "We Rebuild Engines"

That's how us regular folks get it done, anyway, anyhow, to get it runin' and drivin' again.

I take a sticky trap with a dab of peanut butter on it and put it in a plastic Skippy pb jar. You have to bend the sticky trap to put it in, so the mice can't get stuck and drag it all over the place. Put the cap on and toss it. I also keep a small piece of 2x4 cedar from the kid's swingset in...

Is this the factory fuse box? Where/how is this supposed to be mounted? PO zip tied it under the column and it doesn't have any mounting holes.

Sure. Thank you.

GM had window cranks for some vent windows, iirc later, 70s (?), larger Mopars too!

Cragar: The Wheel People, go somewhere else for lug nuts and washers.

The VIN in the add is for a Fastback 383 '67, just don't see a pic of it. BH29H7 I like it, you put on it what you can find/afford and move on. 45k I want the 4th white letter though.

Got any long 62s in red?

Only 67 383 cars had the turn downs with the half moon cutouts in the lower valance, no tips.

I've done that on every car I've owned, this truck is new to me a few months ago. I'm doing some of the wiring over, installed both a ground and positive hub today, as well as a bigger ground cable, separate ground wires for ECU, starter relay, a ground wire all the way to the rear taillights...

Local guy has a solid 67 fastback with a 318 4 speed for under 15k. Imo a reasonable price in these here parts.

I have not been pumping the gas pedal at all. It takes 1 pump and it starts right up, since day 1, any day, any weather/temperature. I gave it 1 pump this morning and that was it, even after multiple attempts to start. Came back in the afternoon, I gave a small pump at the carb to make sure it...

I bought a painless 7 circuit box, modern fuses, comes with wire. Iirc, 3 constant power circuits, 4 ignition power. Fuse box fit in the stock location. Incorporated it into my existing harness using factory correct Packard connectors and the stock plastic connectors. Ran 1 wire to the...

Found it multiple times on FABO.

Battery charged overnight, now at 13.18 volts. Cranking it goes to 10.7. It gave a 'I'm gonna start' for a few seconds then nothing. Spark at the coil wire, spark at the plug wire. The Reluctor gap spec is .008>.011, literally, .007 is too loose, .008 fits, .009/.010 fit nicely, .011 is too...

It seems odd the harness has 4 wires, the plug 5 female connectors, and the ECU 5 pins. Does that mean a 4 pin ECU will work as well? I disconnected the 2 wire connector from the harness to the distributor, each end has a long pin on one side. Key in run, I touched the long pin from the harness...

I'm not understanding a few things: I have a 5 pin ECU, the plug has 5 female pins but only 4 wires, why? I have a single ballast resistor, factory appearing harness, is this correct? The biggest hurdle for me is I see no cause and effect, or maybe the reverse, for everything I have checked...

I'll check tomorrow. Ran fine, then nothing, that gap 'shouldn't' have changed, stuff happens. Years ago I had a bad pickup, it was cracked, only when hot it wouldn't start. Start cold, run hot fine, turn it off no start. Let it cool, start fine. Opposite of current issue, but got to check...

I don't think I checked that directly, just the resistor on both sides. What would cause that? My battery isn't fully charged yet, 80%, but that's enough to crank/start it.