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I have casting year October 71 block and lower assembly. Since it was assembled in 72 would that still have a good crankshaft to hang on to? I was gonna possibly toss it since I bought a new 4” stroker crankshaft?

How did they go about getting the lower compression ratio? Did they not all have flat tops

318/392

Motor has not run yet. New Hydraulic linked roller lifters by morel.

Stock stamped. Just put motor together.

Intake valve rocker on cylinder #5 not getting oil. I did a pre lube of oil pump. Great oil pressure. one rocker not oiling when all others on same side are. I turn crank about 1/4 turn at a time. Any suggestions?

So on a small block 318/392 la motor. 71’ casting date. I am Converting to hydraulic roller lifters and cam which I have. Morel linked lifters. Is this procedure is necessary even for non racing applications.

Hydraulic roller lifters

I got one and read the process. It seems as though its trying to slow flow and block and block off some oil passages. Is this necessary or will she run with out doing this. I have only assembled the bottom end no torquing. Got this racing manual and read that but this is a racing manual. I will...

I had to change blocks I have cam lifters. I went from a 89 block to a 71 block.

Besides the linked roller lifters is anything else necessary to change to roller lifters? I saw someone putting a copper tube in the block drilling a 5/8 hole. block then putting in copper tube. is that a necessary step?

Clegg engines had all my parts balanced and was at my door in 2 1/2 weeks

I got the same head and I went with 11 to one compression

The 318/392 has a longer stroke than the modern 392. Over 4” bore. I wonder how the torque is going to come on. 318/392 will it be a better low revving motor 5600? Or more of a 6k+

392/318 in front of it I was told though my tires would probably break loose before ujoint. They are new I did inspect them. 26” tires

Ok thanks Im putting a 392 behind it probably 475 max hp with 3.91 gears. It was suggested I get a driveshaft loop as well. Thats my only thought with the ujoints

Would if be worth the time to find a drive shaft or replace if I need bigger ujoints I think I can handle the brake lines.

I would not put a dime into a VW but a 71’ demon has alll my money. Won’t be the fastest but I bet when Im done it will beat my 2017 scat. If it beats my challenger then the ends are justified IMO.

Ordered a 4 inch balanced assembly icon forged pistons yeah it’s gonna be a 392 now!

Yep 2300 gaskets and such

What will be required to make the change? Is it a simple swap?

Ill call them Tuesday. I looked them up last week. Thanks. I can see it will work when I push on rocker to meet valve. Did not seem hard to make. I got it to all line up fine.

I have need to shim rocker shaft to get roller tip to seat on valve stem.. i have used copper for shims will this work meaning copper shims? I had to make some none are made for these rockers yet.

With the math 1.6 x .513 = .825? Is that the total lift.

what size pushrods did you use? 5/16 oe the 3/8. What length? I am going to measure when I get block back

3b?

1.6 it is Thanks guy!

I have stock stamped regular old rockers

Im adding to upgrade as suggested. I have .513 lift cam now hyd roller. Im building a 392. I think I can stand some more lift if thats what is gonna happen to get roller rockers. It did not start off as this build it was going to be a .040 over 318 with heads and a cam.