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Thats why I still spray single stage!!!

and labor!!!! You got hit by a drunk or doop'er or maybe just an idiot. Maybe all three! Sorry for your loss.

I agree! The sound of a good running any old engine is music! To take it further, vast majority of my old Mopars came with NO AC. But IF I do have a project with AC sitting there ( usually not working anyway), I pull it and save it for the next guy, if he wants it. Yea it gets hot here in...

One thing I have been taught is different colors, some are way more transparent than pothers, thus require more coats. I also figure some brands of paint and their "levels" have more solids and cover better. Another thing, IF a person, like me, does not have proper lighting, it is hard to...

I agree with talking with Southern Polyurethanes, best tech out there. Great products. I feel for you, as my compressor is NOT really adequate either. I shoot single stage and it is hard for me to not have some orange peel and yes I know clear will give a different "shine" but I am old...

Check out the Tech service sheets for the brand of primers/topcoats you will use for tip sizes like said. Tip size!! That is a big part of the pie!!! Like the key is quality of body work,,, the key is also in the small details of laying down the primer/paint, more so than the GUN!! IMHO

^^^Above is so true! I use a big right angle grinder with a 4 inch wire CUP to also determine what metal I have. And like the other guy said, thin metal is hard to mig weld, and rusty metal won't weld! And also like said, there are quick "fixes" and real fixes! I always prefer to leave...

Cut.weld. grind. little filler sand....BUT I am cheap!

Just tell the guy at the pro paint store you want the highest priced seam sealer he has!!!! That way the next guy i:thumbsup:n 50 years will still have perfect!

The "double post" mirror would be correct????

Auto store's paintable seam sealer is what the factory used. IMHO

Even my Fords use such seals, I bet to help air flow to radiator. Ford ones are cheap...the Mopar ones might not be! :BangHead: :poke:

I say good start!!! I bet if you have the desire, you can improve upon it. I have fabbed out of 20 ga mild steel plate, 64 SS hemi, 64 max wedge, 66 427 Ford scoops etc. I get someone to send me the measurements and make them like originals. Just for my cars mind you. I would have...

History has proved most A body guys, are very conservative (tight) and slow to pull the trigger to buy repop sheetmetal. I remember a few years ago AMD was running out of some Mopar metal and said they would not be repoping any more in the forseeable future. They soldout in days!

Graphic powder after you get it working normal.

AMD sucks for Mopar. Bean counters!!!! Glad you found something that works out plenty fine!!

I say dip to see what is bad, cut out bad and go!

I bet 95% of all the cars I have restored over the decades had rusted out metal under the battery tray. Just the nature of it all, battery acid, moisture trapped under the tray. I always cut out the rust and weld in a patch. It all gets epoxy primer and topcoat in the end. If you aren't a...

All I know is I usually cut out about 3-4 inches of rusted away metal below the battery tray!!! That hole was long gone!!! :poke:

Say "ArmourALL" to a body man and he will go NUTS!!!!!'' :poke: Most all above is good advice.

True. If you go to Southern polyurethane web site,for example, it will mention do not use their epoxy primer over any etch primer. That concerns their product but just be aware of issues that an always arise with any paint product! Epoxy primers claim to fame, is their abilty to stick so...

ome brands of self and epoxy primers do not live well together.

When it takes the glass man and his helper 30 minutes or more to get just the glass in and I have done all the rest and they have been doing this 30 odd years.....I ]call them to install that new glass I have $350 in!! :thumbsup:

The structural adhesive is what I was guessing even though I have no experience with it. Heat was my only concern. Look like cheaper than epoxy too.

I just am concerned about the heat from the engine as to bonding agent whatever I use.

20 ga mild steel plate (sheetmetal).

I have fabbed some MW and hemi scoops before for some of my builds. But, my latest kick is the long hood scoop for the 64 Fairlane R code 427 car. No I am just building me a toy not real! And NO 427 either! (Who hit the dark key!?) anway.. I want to reinforce the bottom side with a...

Ospho. Some of the gurus say spray a second coat after the Ospho was sat a day, , let it sit a few minutes and NOT dry then wash good with water ( maybe with a little soap) to NEUTRALIZE the Ospho. Some epoxy primers can react months later. I remember being told years ago epoxy primers can...

Vinyl tops became popular to give that "sort convertible top" look, make more $$$, and IF the car manu. did not prime/paint the roof, well that is NOT good! Especially a few decades later after it has sat outside for years.

OK damn I thought that was UT for a minute. I did not watch his entire vid. Yes vinegar attacks rust, slowly. Maybe great for a slow week long soak in a small vat for some things. Muratic acid kills rust, and you can also have NO metal left. I would NEVER use it myself but what do I know. I...