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Is it a standard Holley baseplate or a HP/ Aftermarket baseplate?

Is it a 1-1 linkage as well?

In most cases the transfer slot on the secondary's are usually shorter and higher. To get the so called small square window on the secondary's would require you to open them too far allowing too much are in and raising the idle speed.

Can you elaborate on the specs please. Most 400 cube small block mopars usually run mid 10's with an OEM style head.

That cam has 89 degrees of overlap. How much vacuum is it making at idle? How much initial have you got?

It really comes down to sample rate and cost. You could find an old DL-32 for cheap if you don't need high sample rates. Other wise RPM seems decent and if you have the money Racepak

Here go read this: CamKing’s 355 boat motor cam My 355" SBC boat engine It's 10:1 with ported 492 heads, Performer RPM, and Holley 600. RPM---TQ--BHP 3200--436--266 3400--443--287 3600--445--305 3800--444--321 4000--443--337 4200--440--352 4400--440--368 4600--441--386 4800--441--403...

I've posted it here before somewhere. Just watch these: Carby Tuning Techniques

That can also mean it's lean at time of ignition at the spark plug and that would correspond with clean plugs and electrode wear. Just because you give a cylinder an AFR of 12.5 to 1 doesn't mean that's the AFR at the plug when you fire it. Shrinker on electrode wear: I dont know anything...

You're not alone.

Something to consider: Shrinker on the "Kill Bleed" G'morning Shrinker, So what happens with the opposite extremes? One case being too large of an air bleed (always atmospheric in the air well), and too large of a 'kill bleed' and/or e-holes above fuel level. The other case also being too...

Try Mike Jones. He sells centre oiling lifters Flat Tappet Lifters | Jones Cams

There's a lot whittle down..

Wow

Fix it. You should be aiming for at least 14v or more at idle. Also if the spark plug doesn't reach far enough into the cylinder it is igniting the mixture at the boundary layer at the chamber wall so its not going to be the best mixture to get the burn started correctly.

Um......No. Everything is cyclical and the pendulum will swing the other way. The world will go back to the way it was shortly. This thread is not the place for that discussion.

What's the chamber volume? Can you post a pick of the chamber?

They appear to be the heads Skrews did a while back yes?

Thank you for contributing to the knowledge base on these carbs for the mopar community. Your efforts are much appreciated. Edit. Also these carbs were oem in Australia on Ford V8's

Do they sell them in 11/32? Any oem head I do gets 11/32s. Seems crazy to use 3/8 valves today unless you already have them

What's the port volume on those? 160 cc's?

Just use lash caps.

That's one sexy looking car! Also I thought those lifters are meant to sit the other way?

Looks to be a taller carb so the air travelling down the bore will most likely increase shear force (better) as opposed to the Holley chokeless main body design.

Agree. The new stuff seems to be over bled so you'd need to see what calibration Edelbrock put in their carbs. Far easier to find an early list Holley for cheap and get it rebuilt by a reputable carb builder. At least the early Holley's were make correctly and have the correctly sized internal...

Next, a leak down test

In other words the cams too big to begin with so cutting it on a tight LSA and advancing it a bunch to close the intake valve sooner will make it appear smaller to make up for the lack of compression

This^^^ Build the best short block you can afford then just change the top end when you want to go faster.

I'm screwing one together now. Got it with a project I bought a long time ago and was zero decked with stock pistons. Its doable but you'll need to machine manifolds to fit. I went through my pile of manifolds around 8 or more to find one that fit, a Weiand single plane.

1/10 of a degree change was stated to be noticeable from a seat of the pants perspective.