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Beautiful job. Will last a long time

Fords fullsize pickups are aluminum bodied, and glued and riveted together, but that doesnt make them better either.

Your stress is concentrated on the bolt attach points. This is where over time depending how you drive the car you will likely get cracking looseness and failure. Sure cracking can start at a weld seam, but is less likely because the entire structure is more rigid. As far as bolts go, case in...

Thanks for the kudos Rusty. This is an old thread i replied to that seemed to pick up traction again. I used 2x3 box steel 1/8" thick. The lap plates against the torsion bar crossmember are 3/16". They allow a better load transition into the thinner crossmember since they are laying alongside...

Sorry, I dont agree with that statement. You can never make a bolted in subframe connector as strong as welded in for any length of time. Get a Lincoln, Miller or Hobart MIG, and buzz em in. Call it a day.

Sorry, no longer doing this. Gubmint wrecked my good time by wanting me to pay taxes on anything I make over $600 on any cash app, venmo, or PayPal etc. I sold out of my battery cables and shock plates before it went into effect then stopped. I'd rather trade parts for what I need, but I dont...

No biggie

I have done both.

Heres mine. Slotted at the rear and overlapping the framerail. E brake cable rerouted inboard of the connector so it runs parallel to it. I have seen people make big gaping slots in the connectors for cables. It kills the strength and looks like ***. I fitted this with a 4 speed setup. It clears...

I have done 2 cars with 2x3 and lap plates on the torsion bar crossmember. Plenty strong, and cheap to do.

I have heard that they dont fit well to the ribbing in the floor because every car is a little different, requiring a lot of weld to fill gaps. USCT IS Definitely not a project to be done unless the car upside down on a rotisserie. I did both of mine with 2x3 steel box tube layed on its side...

I was close I knew it was around there. There, fixed it for ya!!!

108" wheelbase is 67-69 barracuda, 70-76 duster, 71-72 demon, 73-76 dart sport. 67-76 dart 2 door and 4 door, 4 door valiant, and plymouth scamp are 111" wheelbase There may be others, but there are 2 different wheelbases

I was trying to joke around a bit and also try to smooth things over a bit between you two. Look, I saw the TSB myself, and also pulled 2 sets of the big joint arms off 73 up drum brake cars. You are right the TSB should have ended it right there. Facts are facts, and the TSB is the smoking gun...

Now now, theres no reason to poke the guy and add insult to injury. We all learn new stuff over time.

I meant to say keep the BBJ UCAs off those cars before junking them.

OP will still need to get 73 up Disc brake lower ball joints and grade 8 bolts for the swap. You can use these bolts to do this. Get grade 8 and "stove nuts" dimension shown is a bit long. They could stand to be 1/8" to 1/4" shorter than what's shown in my screen shot. You will need 2 per...

OMM that sucks that you didnt know and scrapped the 10" finned drum cars, because those UCAs are like effing gold these days. I happened to enquire about a set of BBJ A body UCAs and that they are hard to get with my mopar junkyard buddy, and he didnt have any. Then he mentioned 73-75 SBP 10"...

OMM from what I understand, there were 2 types of drum setups from 73 up. 9" SBP smooth drum which used SBJ UCA and older spindle I am assuming from 63-72 10" SBP finned drum which used LBJ UCA and special spindle made from 73- I got one set of arms off fakebook off a truk lagoon rusty 74...

Put a ruler across them studs, and post the measurement. I'm betting those are SBP drums like the ones I pulled off that 74 valiant to get at the BBJ UCAs. Reason I pulled all that **** off was I also wanted the LCAs too.i could go to the junkyard with my 6" machinests scale to get a pic. But I...

Nope. I went for the UCAs off the 74 valiant knowing what they were, took the rest off and pitched it into the car. The easiest way if you have a K772 balljoint is measure the distance across it at the wrench flats where the ball joint socket goes, then measure the one your comparing it to.

Wrong. I pulled a set of BBJ UCAs off a 74 valiant SBP drum brake car in a local junky. It had the larger finned drums. It was a slant sux car that was never apart. In fact I was told this tidbit by a guy who runs a local mopar wrecking yard. He is really into these cars. He told me look for the...

Hemi331 if your slant 6 car was a factory A/C car, it will have 318 V8 bars in it.

Check rock auto and cross reference the part numbers to see if they are the same.

Wrongo. If you set the car up with bigger sway bars, wider stickier rubber, and poly bushings, it will most certainly benefit from subframe connectors keeping the body stiff and forcing that upgraded suspension to do its job. Not everything about these cars involves just a straight line.

13 gage 2x3 box layed on their side overlaps the rear framerails nicely. Slot the rear footwell in the floor pan and they stick through about 1/2" relocate that parking brake cable inboard of the connectors too while your at it.

Your right, but for $300 with papers, I couldent pass it up

Unless it's an aussie mopar then they get all confused

Theres still some people that dont know that lol

LH or RH is always as seated in the car