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I've seen little blue or green condoms that go over instrument bulbs for back light color on some cars, but I don't recall seeing that on Mopars. Someone more knowledgeable will be along to expand or correct this.

The bulbs were always white/uncovered. There might be tape over the turn signal markers depending if the original car had fender mounted indicators.

You working on an '06 Charger or a '73 Super Beetle?

It's probably not necessary, but I've gotten to where I bypass the ammeter (bolt one lug directly to the other) during any diagnostics at all. Whether you leave it like that is up to you.

The timing should still be stable even if it needs rebuilt. If the damper hasn't slipped, it could be the timing chain slop but that doesn't sound terrible.

If you have a lean-burn distributor or a junker that you can lock everything out of, try that and see if it stabilizes. I second checking the damper ring, and also....where did you get your parts? (don't say O'rielly or Autozone or Advance, please). I've had new distributors from AZ that had...

You said 'fuse' for the dome light. As mentioned, make sure the doors are closed, BUT, there's a helluva lot more on that circuit than just the dome light. Set up your test light between ground and battery negative, but unplug the three connectors at the bulkhead. If the light goes out, plug in...

The number after the dash is the wire size, and the letters indicate the color. Think: cigar lighter draws a lot of current, so it gets a 16ga wire and is Pink. Glove box light draws almost nothing so it gets a 20ga wire and is also Pink. Seat belt light is Yellow but it's brighter and draws...

"The harness is good". How, exactly do you know this? In my car, it was the brake light shorted through at the bulkhead connector.

I ain't trying to be rude here, but are you sure you're looking at the damper correctly?

Please calm down a little bit. He's not attacking you, and if he is, that's his problem, not anything wrong with you.

I think the simplest answer for OP, regardless of all this, is that with the key in RUN, the oil light and brake light work normally. There's no self-test for BRAKES like on later vehicles (that I'm aware of), and the default operation for the oil light also coincidentally serves as a self test...

I'll look at the diagrams and see, but all I can tell you is what I see when I start the car. I never said the wiring in my car was right, either. :rofl:

I think the oil pressure switch grounds the circuit, and oil pressure moves the contact and breaks the ground so light goes out. Power to the circuit turns off with the key

I only know my '72, '75, and my '90's pickups, but I have to disagree. The oil light on my cars is on during cranking, only goes out when the key is off or engine has pressure. I know this because if I crank long enough, it'll start winking out. I'm not sure about accessory, I don't use that...

Lift, you say? Hmmm...you're not that far from me....

OK, proper oil light operation! Like RRR said, the light should ONLY come on when the key is on, motor is off (or, ugh, if you lose oil pressure for some reason). The light should go OUT when you start the car (within 2-3 seconds) and STAY out until you shut the car off (or lose oil pressure)...

Congrats on being not only the first person to respond, but also being damn near the only person in the whole damned thread to get this....

Sigh, I give up.

Guys, you need to re-read the OP. His light is coming on with the key off and removed. This is an electrical issue, not an oil pressure issue.

When my car did that, the bulkhead connector was melted and the wiring was shorting under the dash. I barely dodged a fire.

Dang man, I atoned for that sin over a year ago!

Yeah, on 40-50 year old vehicles, there is no such thing. Fully restored with a new harness is about as close to nominal as you can get if you're measuring draw at the battery on a headlight system.

THIS, and verify that the battery is good, and doesn't have some weird shorted cell or something.

The factory used non adhesive black vinyl tape. Regular electrical tape makes me want to murder someone

Yeah this is my preferred method. Then the diagram is already made for you. In either case, draw/print a diagram, add any changes you make to it, then get it laminated and keep it in your glovebox or trunk. You'll be shocked how quickly you forget where that red wire you added went, and the...

These also can work well, but please be aware that Chinese version of these (and Chinese fuses) have caused many fires and circuit damages. Harbor Freight even had a recall on fuses. SAFETY RECALL

If it's not a resto, consider splicing in a modern fusebox from a later-model car like a Neon or something. This will give you the blade fuses and some relays to work with.

Pretty much this. Unless it's a resto, it's this.

I just connected the wires together under the hood, taped it up, and called it a day. It bugged me that the gauge didn't work, until I realized that the only reason I was looking at it at all was because it didn't work. I have AAA if something goes down, and 99% of the time, I get a warning via...