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There are several I know, including myself. Unfortunately, many/most are aging and not doing work for other people. Also, like in my case the machine shop(s) I used have shut down. I still have not found a replacement shop that I have confidence in.

Not with block casting numbers. There are numbers stamped on the top of the block (deck surface) that sticks out past the head just below the number one spark plug hole. If the block has been decked the numbers will not be there. The water pump bypass hose between the water pump and the head is...

See my post over at slantsix.org. Basically I recommend contacting a converter manufacturer, and letting them do the math. Your engine has the small pilot, and the trans has the small spline input shaft. Not too many converter builders will build those any more. Edge racing converters made my...

I can't do pictures, but I have a 1965 Valiant that has a 170 with a turbo. Original build was in 1979-1980. Also have a 66 Valiant that has a 170 with a nitrous "fogger" system, and also has run a 225 with a 2 stage plate system. I race with several other slant six people that also do "corner...

Need more info. For factory, need to know what year model vehicle. As for best stall, that depends on what is done to the engine/vehicle, and what your goals are. For max stall possible, I have seen slants with over 5,000 rpm stall. My own cars the stall varies anywhere from about 2,200 rpm to...

Which repair manual? I couldn't find it in the factory repair manual. It stated to use the engine compartment decal.

38 is way to high if the vacuum advance is disconnected. 32 is more where it should be. EDIT: does this vehicle have the lean burn system on it?

The water bypass hose between the head and the water pump is approx 3 inches long on the 198 and 225 engine. It is about 1.5- 2 inches long on the 170

No, It is an aftermarket high dollar ignition system. It uses a Chinese mad slant six electronic (copy cat) distributer with no vacuum advance (just centrifical) with a HEI type 4 pin module, and a round oil filled coil (not even an "E" coil). In my opinion a high dollar piece of snake oil...

That stupid distributer does not have a provision for vacuum advance,

OK, that is a start. Have you checked at just idling, or have you gone down the road. Does it run hot driving? Does the car have AC? does it have a clutch fan, does it have a fan shroud?

How about some basic info? What vehicle? stock or modified? Has this been from the first day you got the vehicle, or did it start after doing some work on the vehicle? Some of us are pretty darn good at diagnosing and fixing problems, but mind readers we are not.

Personally, I don't think one is necessary. With the taper on the lobes, and the load of the oil pump that should keep the cam from moving forward. Now if using a roller cam and external belt drive oil pump, we have a different ball game.

https://www.gillwelding.com/slant-six-2024-race-schedule https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=67691

I was going to build a "long rod" engine. But wound up getting this car/engine from a member here, last month. This is a link to some build pictures. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/engine-build-pics.266094/#post-1970570367

K/sa is a pretty high class for a slant six. In 1975 I was a Z/sa with a 1965 model 100 2dr sdn 170 engine (101 hp). Minimum car weight was 2527 lbs. I don't have any class/weight brakes from before that time. That car would be heavier and more hp than mine.

Possible the manifold is warped. Not likely of a problem with the head. Make sure you have the proper manifold hardware, and it is installed correctly

A high volume pump in a slant is neither wanted or needed .

I don't know. I have never checked that out. I should have both type pick ups here, and a block and oil pan, but won't have time to check it out for over a week. I'm trying to get ready to go to a slant six race up in Kentucky next weekend. I only have today and Monday to work on my trailer...

Very possible it is factory. Some of the stand pipes had a check valve in them.

https://rosscarb.com/fish-carburetors/

Aren't those the 100MPG carbs? :) :)

I still say Measure what you have then figure what you need to do to get 8.7-9.0 CR. After 9.0 tuning can be a PIA, if wanting to run 87-89 octane. Don't just go milling willy/nilly.

My opinion: Measure what you have, then take off the needed amount (either deck, head or both) to get between 8.7 and 9-1. Use the numbers for an "aftermarket" head gasket, (as the OEM stamped steel gasket is getting hard to find). There is absolutely no downside to raising the CR of a slant...

The newest (several years old) version of the Clifford 4bbl intake has a water jacket. Not for cooling but for heating, to help cold weather drivability. It is connected to the heater hoses.

1975 was the changeover year.

That information has been available for over 20 years. Just a FYI: with 134a don't rely on the site glass, and it is better to be a little undercharged, then to be overcharged.

That is not correct. If the system has all original components (no non original parts such as an updated condenser) the r-134a charge should be about 80 % of the R-12 charge.

I've seen that one, also. Real nice build, and a driver.

Need engine brackets, rubber insulators (mounts), 66 down car oil pan and pickup. 65 driveshaft uses a B&T front joint. 66 and later trans uses they common u-joint. 65 dart uses a cable shifter (automatic) 81 uses mechanical shift linkage. Speedo cable is different (I think it is a 1966 cable...