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We got hit pretty bad here. No power since early Friday morning and probably won't be back for another couple days. We lost water for a day or so but it's back. My neighborhood was fortunate, all the trees are far away from the houses but some got some shingles ripped off and there are downed...

6.4... many more of them were made than the 6.1, more power, more torque, pretty much better in every way.

That would make for some pretty hard breasts

Engineered Cooling Products (ECP) for the win. Good price, great quality, make in USA. Have one in my Duster and my D200. ECP Chevy Truck Radiators

Carrier bearing preload on an 8 3/4” is done 'at the same time' as backlash since it uses threaded adjusters instead of shims (score 1 for Chrysler engineering!). Just make sure final adjustment is to tighten both adjusters as much as possible then install locking tabs and torque carrier main...

That's easy then. Just need to put fresh clutches in "new" diff, remove old open diff from 3rd member, swap ring gear to new diff, reinstall. You'll probably want to reset the backlash and check the mesh pattern but pinion depth won't be changed since you won't be touching the pinion gear.

Summit carb is its own animal entirely, kinda resembles a Holley but it's not a copy like QFT etc. The main body and bowls are a single unit with a top plate that comes off for disassembly and tuning. Engine Masters (RIP :() tested one against a few other "new" street carbs and it worked well...

Allegedly lots of development time and effort into that carb. Only time will tell how good or bad it is, it hasn't been out for that long (<3 years?). Iirc Holley made it known that their long-term business goals are with EFI systems and are kind of giving up on carbs; Edelbrock figured this...

Take your time, have a clean and "happy" work space, ideally a jig or at least a big table vise to hold the pumpkin for torquing bolts. Are you changing the ring and pinion? For me getting the pinion depth right is the biggest pain, big time-saver is to gradually sand/grind the ID of an old...

For them to be "designed right" would make them expensive and enough of a pain to install (read: drilling lots of holes and installing lots of bolts) that it wouldn't be worth it vs welding them in. The k-frame doesn't experience the same kind of loading as the unibody between the front and...

Agreed, I think for the OP's goals and since the short block is already in good shape it's not worth the expense of swapping pistons and rebalancing everything. 9:1 isn't excellent but it's better than the 8:1 (or less) of stock LA 360's and still allows you to run regular gas which saves quite...

Not a bad idea. Yes since the van is pre-1996.5 you can swap the gears and diff from that into an A-body 8 1/4".

I was going to say get a wideband O2 setup to get an idea of what the AFRs actually are but I think with the OP's experience level I have to agree, getting a dyno tune first is the safest and best option.

I started building a 440 for my D200 a few years back but the project has kind of stalled out due to life changes and I'd rather it go to someone who can finish it. 440 block and forged crankshaft out of a 1973 New Yorker. Block was clean enough it didn't need hot-tanking but has been cleaned...

Does it stumble at all if you floor it from a stop? In my experience it's a bit of a trade-off with that style of carbs, if you speed up the secondary air door opening so there's no delay when mashing it at cruise then it stumbles when mashing it from a dead stop and vice-versa.

That dash-mounted shifter is pretty cool, usually see column shifters in older trucks with auto transmissions.

Sounds like battery cable terminals, try cleaning them. Or neutral safety switch, or wiring to the starter solenoid. Also not to be a dick but please try to use periods, your post was a bit hard to follow.

I think a lot of the issues with the 8-speed come from Chrysler's stupid "lifetime" and "no service required" maintenance protocols. ZF (the manufacturer) themselves call for a fluid and filter change at 60k miles iirc. These transmissions don't have a dipstick for checking the fluid level but...

True, I forgot about those. Basically any transmission that wasn't made by Chrysler is better lol. Unless we're going way back to the 3-speed Torqueflite of course.

The 8-speed is a heck of a lot better than any of the ones before it in trucks; 4-, 5-, 6-speeds are grenades with the pin pulled. 4xRE is ok after it's been rebuilt with some upgrades. I suppose the Pentastar V6 in a Ram would work at sea level, my mom has a 2014 300C with the V6 and 8-speed...

I used to do that for friends and family when I was in my teens-twenties but right now I hardly have time to even work on my own cars. No way I'd do it for free either unless it's family or close friends. A few times I got in a bit over my head and spent way more time than expected. I...

True but you think the kind of guy telling that story would know anything like that? Lol

Idk if I fully agree with that last part, maybe to some degree. @BergmanAutoCraft has already done the "re-engineering" also @Mattax and @72bluNblu have a lot of experience with this. I've modified the factory suspension on my '70 Duster to where it's worlds better than stock even though it...

Sounds like another "200 mpg carburetor" or "my step-uncle special ordered a Vega with a L-88" kinda story

It depends on whether the engine wants MVA or not. I don't think tuning will be that hard, vacuum advance is the kind of thing that's best dialed in with driving. However the idle vacuum will be much lower than cruise so it may be a case where using MVA doesn't give much advance at idle unless...

I was running a very short track (partially autocross style with cones on an oval track) and 2.94 rear end gears. Power was also down because that was back in CO at 5000+ feet elevation. I've been jonesing to hit a track in GA but got other life priorities for the time being.

I've been to (I think) 5 track day events so far with my '70 Duster that has an A-904 with a shift kit. I basically don't downshift to 1st until I'm accelerating out of a corner otherwise it'll unsettle the rear end (at best) and I worry about burning up the low-reverse band and 1st-gear...

That method is actually in the Mopar FSM's as well for determining if the driveshaft is imbalanced, possibly where the magazine guys got it from? Lol. Those old Chrysler engineers were clever. One thought I had is the rear leaves could be starting to wear out and allowing too much axle windup...

My cam is a custom grind roller with fast ramps, 272 adv duration and hair under .550" lift so it's a bit bigger than the .050" numbers might indicate esp compared to flat tappet. The ported heads help with the top end too, makes power up to about 6k with somewhat restrictive exhaust. I think...

If there is a cylinder misfiring or incomplete fuel burn it will show as lean on the gauge since not all the O2 is being consumed by the engine and is just passing through. So yes if the engine is running so rich that it can't properly combust the air/fuel mix the sensor will show a false lean...