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Or a little string of rubber fuel line.

Absolutely, the best way to go, even for ones that do know about carb tuning. AND the smoke may just be solved with more PCV since it’s getting blown into.

The cable throttle pressure setup simplifies the heck out of that part. Then you can make your money back by selling the rods setup.

Pretty much impossible to re crimp those, but a bicycle shop has cable ends like Locar cables use. Pretty sure Ace Hardware carries this type.

There sure is a lot of misunderstanding about what a carb does and how it works in this thread. I know, worthless post.

Needle and seat not closing. Could be too much fuel pressure, a bad needle and seat, or something stuck in the needle and seat. The very first thing I do in this situation is pinch off the fuel line with the engine running, and when the engine starts running out of fuel I unpinch the line...

As long as you don’t have any vacuum leaks, try this. Screw your idle mixture screws in lightly until they stop and count the turns. Take em out and shoot some carb cleaner, WD40 or whatever into the open holes and blast air into them both. The liquid will help carry junk out of the idle...

I drilled the OE sender and used a brass lamp nipple and a nut on each side, then soldered a small section of copper tube to the brass piece for the line to slide onto. A couple of nylon washers from Ace Hardware and it worked great. Been that way for 5-6 years.

Here’s the thrown together video from my cruise up the mountain if you guys are interested.

Absolutely agree with all your points septin for one. Tuning is fun too. :D Tell ya what, I just got back from that drive and the car ran, drove and handled really well on that road. I might know one or maybe two people that wouldn’t have been scared to ride with me. I did take my phone and did...

I totally get where AJ is coming from, and have to agree with him, even though or maybe because I run an afr full time. I can also totally relate to the fat Wife analogy unfortunately. :D I sometimes watch a channel called Fort9 about motorcycles. He had a whole table of riding accessories...

I was a professional certified mechanic for decades. Caddy needed head gaskets and the computer was dumping huge amounts of fuel into the engine. I did the head gaskets and had him sign an agreement to NOT drive the car until the computer was fixed or replaced. He drove it anyway and blew it up...

My experience with it was when Holley sent me a bad ignition module. I had random constant bad misses and my afr was showing lean as hell. It wasn’t lean, but just reading unburned 02.

I was wondering if anyone was going to mention that. :D

This might help.

Higher pressure will cause the needle to close ever so slightly later. But not anywhere near enough to make any difference in the tune.

Fuel filter acting normal. :D

Nice. This is what I meant when I said it works if you use it correctly, and that it works on some materials and not others. Thanks.

Ah true, but not all metals. Nor does it clean everything. That’s why it’s use has to be so specific.

2% is kinda lite, but I’m looking forward to seeing the results you get. 2% for 10 minutes, or 10% for 2 min. :D

I use muriatic acid on some things here and there. It wont damage plastic or most rubber when diluted, and it kicks *** for cleaning rust and corrosion. But as you have noticed by now, it is something you have to be very careful with. I sometimes use it for carbs, but diluted and only leave it...

Electrics have their drawbacks, but they also have their advantages. After a decade of running both at different times I would have to say mechanical is more reliable. I run electric myself because of those advantages. Instant fuel to the carb and therefore instant starts with very little...

Ah crap, I forgot about the lip.

Maybe put the bowl on a flat sanding surface like we would a water neck. Though the moto tool would obviously work, it would be hard to get a uniform surface with it.

You did an excellent job of describing your symptoms. It’s gotta be either the pump, the pickup or the lines between them. Make sure no lines are sucking air anywhere, look for wet spots on the rubber ones, and replace any rubber that has hardened up. Actually if you don’t have it already, use...

What I would do is start disconnecting linkage parts until I found what was holding it open. If I didn’t find it doing that I would make sure the throttle plates inside the carb were centered when closed.

They normally use 2 part epoxy to seal those plugs. Kind of a common problem really.

So pour a little fuel down it’s throat and see if it fires off. Nothing about the alternator is going to keep it from running except a dead short, and you would know it if that was the case. You would have an electrical fire.

Believe it or not the Edelbrock carbs are more prone to heat soak because of where the bowls are.

This Holley YouTube video is pretty good for beginning basics. I’m a pretty strong believer in not flooding someone with information. Happens way too much on here. I can post more informative stuff when needed.