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With the availability of nylon stock at Ace Hardware and the mototool I would just make one way before I would pay 30 bucks or more for it. That said, it obviously completely depends on a persons ability to do it successfully. I can't imagine they are not around a lot cheaper than that...

Having to hold it in a gear is REALLY hard on shift forks. Did you not loosen the side cover and push it as far forward as possible like J par said to do? Sometimes the shift forks don't push the gear all the way into position and pushing the cover forward as far as it will go can help move the...

It does look like a rear main seep, and keep in mind oil travels and makes it hard to tell sometimes exactly where it's coming from. Note that it looks wet all the way around the pan seal, but like I said oil travels so we can't be absolutely sure it's not leaking a little also. It's got to come...

Or from slipping the clutch a lot on takeoffs. But yea, oil makes it worse and you can see in the first couple of pics in the center of the PP it's been slinging some. I would guess input shaft seal on the trans from where it is on the PP.

Dexron is an automatic trans fluid type and can often help with shifting issue's. (some people run pure ATF just for the reasons AJ mentioned about slipperyness) One habit I always got in when taking off was to put the trans in second, and then into first. This positively stops the gears before...

I try to put a washer (even just a really thin one) behind any clip that the linkage moves against so the linkage doesn't drag against clip possibly working it off.

Do you have the return spring on it?

I put one of those in a 66 Ranchero with a straight 6 and was really happy with it. Being adjusted correctly makes a big difference in how much happy there is.:D Got it on the first try though.

My test light has a lot of different uses.:D

That's what a lot like for older sticks.

I quoted both of you because you both have basically the same concerns. Being a person that was in the trans business for years and especially with older manuals I will tell you what was done as accepted practice as far as lubes and syncros goes. There is truth to the statement that synthetics...

Not with the headers in the way. Tilt the motor back and they may be accessible.

Input shaft has to come out of the center of the clutch to get the clutch out, so it has to come back at least that far and once it's that far you might as well get it out of your way. You'll be glad you did. Bell can probably be turned sideways once the trans is out of the way. You may have to...

Exactly, and none of which would likely be the cause for noise from the clutch. Stabilizing that motor and a new TO bearing would be a great start, as long as nothing else is worn or dry. Possibly even a pilot bushing/bearing could be worn out. If I saw it and heard it in person I could tell ya...

Oh hell no, those are absolutely necessary. Someone left them out.

1st step is linkage adjustment check. If it were me I would put the trans in neutral, get under the car and see if the lever for reverse can be moved by hand into and out of reverse. That would tell me right away if it's a linkage issue or an internal problem.

Having done a lot of standards professionally, I don't see anything particularly out of the ordinary there. In some cases the snap ring will flatten and flare the ends of the teeth on this side of the grove slightly causing the problem you are having. Those teeth look completely normal to me...

This is what I was going to mention, because if the syncros are worn they don't stop the gear the trans is trying to go into from spinning and therefore will make it hard to go into gear. Whenever there is a hard shifting (like it doesn't want to go into gear when cold) it's always fluid...

You have bearings going out, and no additive is going to help. Since it's first and second mostly that tells me that it may very well be the rear shaft bearing, but the longer it goes without being taken care of the more it's going to destroy. Sorry for the scary story, but that's what happens...

Yep, a very light brushing of the lube on the splines is all you want to use, but it is a good thing. It helps to make sure your clutch releases like it should, because the clutch disc needs to move forward and back slightly on the splines, and if it doesn't it can cause the disc to drag against...

Moparofficial mentioned the sequence to do it in the car and he is right, but I'll make his post just a little clearer. Under the trans mount there is a metal plate with two big Phillips screws in it. One the driveline is out and the bolts that hold the tail housing are out, there is a big snap...

It can be done properly with the puller/driver tool, but at an average of $150-200 you might want to just pull the housing. SST-0161-A Ford / Chrysler Extension Housing Bushing Remover / Installer Tool C6 | eBay

Hopefully you hold Passon responsible for replacing it. I certainly would, and it may deter him sending other peoples parts out to whoever it was that actually lost it. In fact, you shouldn't have to do this, as they should take it upon themselves to replace it.

That's the way it is supposed to be.

Which is also common, even on the backup lights/neutral safety switchs on automatics.

Oh yea it happens, and if I remember correctly there are two different type (long/short) and the wrong one can jamb up reverse.

Probably just the input shaft bearing anyway if it only seems to do it in first and second. (about the easiest one to get to):D

Crap, I have to go against the grain here. Even though people have had worse and used them without any apparent problems those black/blued spots mean the metal in those spots got hot enough to surface harden. Now those spots will wear slower than the rest of the surface causing premature disc...

There are only four things that cause that and they are: 1.The speedo head itself 2.A kinked drive cable 3.A cable binding inside the housing. 4.A damaged drive gear on the trans end Disconnecting the cable from the speedo and running the car with the rear wheels off the ground could possibly...

The kit came with support arms that mounted to some of the tailshaft bolts, so it didn't need a mounting pad. Most of the people I have seen that bitched about how they worked didn't have them adjusted right.