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I have had a lot of cars over the years with 318s. Some are better than others in stock form, but the best ones I have found are the '68-'69 318s. Of course the compression was higher in those years, but they just plain worked. They are dead nuts reliable and it doesn't matter the year, they go...

I wouldn't pay $400 for that gamble. If you found a non rusted standard bore block that passed a magnaflux and sonic test for $1,000 you would be money ahead in the long run if you must have a 340. Good luck, and let us know how this turn out.....

Here's some food for thought. Four years ago I bought a '68 383 big block and 727 from a good friend that ran good with good oil pressure etc. He had it on his run in stand and checked it out without me hearing it run and I took his word for it. It sat in my heated shop for a year and I decided...

I would say that smoothing out the casting flash and any very rough edges inside the port is always a good thing. Gasket matching on an engine that rarely sees over 4000 R.P.M. will probably give you little to no gains, but it wouldn't hurt especially if you plan to upgrade the cam etc. in the...

Regardless of anything, an engine revving up to 9,000 R.P.M. is pure music to the ears....

IMHO, I would save the 340 block and pass it on to a restoration type guy. Then find a 360 block for much less and build your stoker based on that for less money in the long run. By stroking it and changing the pistons, heads, etc., it's not a ''magical'' 340 anymore for that matter. And your...

I glad I didn't win. That's why I let it time out, I couldn't stand the thought of going to his place and seeing him running nekkid in the house at 3 am yelling ''Get them offa me!'' to imaginary bugs. (J.K. Rob!)

You're welcome.:thumbsup:

The block was in a '69 model A-Body built at Hamtramck built in about January to April 1969 according to the serial number stamped on the pad. It could be a 340 Swinger, GTS, or Barracuda. This guy would probably have a better more accurate opinion @Alaskan_TA

Thanks. I never realized that the port holes could cause that much reversion. About 25 years ago on a 318, I capped some holes with set screws after I tapped the holes and after about 1000 miles, the holes on the inside port area was perfectly filled up with carbon and smooth with the port so...

Another vote here for the circle track engine modifications to the breathers...........

When I posted, there was only the top picture. So I thought it was about the port holes. My bad. Sorry for the confusion.:eek:

Are you talking about the holes under the exhaust ports? I just cleaned mine really good and used a zap from the mig welder to seal mine and it worked flawlessly. It only took about 10 minutes for the whole job including a quick pass with the air sander to level it off. It was like filling in a...

Oh, I forgot to add that the passenger side went in pretty easily with just a small ding to clear torsion bar, but I already had the 90 degree oil filter adapter from the factory. Also, the factory starter worked with no clearance issues.........

I'm not sure about the other brands, but don't use Flowtech headers if you have power steering. They hit the box itself slightly which a few easy dings corrected, but the big issue is that they hit the steering coupler right square in the middle of the #7 tube. Even after bashing the tube in...

I would clean it up and run it as is. I've seen a lot of scarier **** cleaned up and run without any problems. I realize that there is a ''right'' way to do things and a ''good enough'' way to do things. For your intended use, the ''good enough'' way would be good enough. Clean it up and...

Thanks for posting this article, it was very entertaining! What happened in post #13?

There are lots of off the shelf headers for your application. There is no need to buy custom. Maybe go to Summit and type in the search box for small block headers in a '65 B-Body and you will get a lot of options to choose from. It's a lot harder with A-Bodies, because there are only a couple...

Very nice. Roughly, how much was the cost of the build?

I say the bottom line is $500 for the pair as is. If the 340 is a good core, then you did good, and if it's a dud, then there's still the heads etc. that are worth some money. The 318 isn't worth more than $100 as a core at best, and that's if it's good. It's called gambling, you win some, and...

I totally agree with you. It's intended purpose is to keep oil away from the front seal and is not a big deal if omitted. The seal technology probably got better in the later years, that's why the factory omitted them. They probably saved a buck an engine by deleting them, and that adds up!

X2 lol

Sounds good. A man right after my heart.........cheap, easy, and functional. Looking forward to the updates and of course, plenty of pics!

Excellent post, and right on point.

Let us know how it turns out for ya.........

You could have deleted/edited your post. It's a little late for that now. BTW, I was going to post some detailed pictures and helpful suggestions seeing that I went through the same scenario as you. My suggestion now is to figure it out yourself or take it to an exhaust shop and pay them to...

Just a minute here. You had some good responses to your question. Cheap headers are a pain in the *** to install on a V8 A-Body like yours. Period. If you can't take a little sarcasm, then maybe you are in the wrong hobby. And if you asked this question on a Ford or Chevy site, you would have...

They said that the Dyno test would come later, so I guess we'll have to wait...........

Great video, thanks for sharing, Rob!

My suggestion is to keep the engine as is with the exception of popping the heads off and mildly port them as well as a gasket match and a good clean up of the casting flash in the ports etc. That would make for a good daily driver type car. Stage 2 would be to do the head work and install the...