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what filter do you recommend i run? something bigger than stock right? also oil recommendation? i've used amsoil z-rod 10w 30 in the past but what should i break it in on?

one last question, i read up on the pan and on kevko's website they say 5 qt but another website selling it says 5 minimum and it will hold 6. what's right? also is this front or rear sump? it says stock location but i thought that varied. mine is front. thanks again for the responses

http://www.kevkoracing.com/images/M301_full.gif so would this pan be good enough? i have stock suspension and cheap long tube headers so i think this is about as big as i can go. what if i add in a 3 qt oil accumulator later on before i road race it? also any preference on piston rings?

i planned on balancing it, i was just wondering if it would be too far off or present issues. what i am doing for oiling mods is HV pickup, homemade baffle in stock pan (duster) and drilled all the oil passages from oil pump to main bearing to 1/2" and rounded off all the sharp egdes. What might...

first off, i did a search and couldnt get the answers i was looking for. i sold off a lot of stuff and i have about $1500 to work with. i already have a forged 273 crank. my plan with this engine is street/strip/and occational track days (im 10 miles from Road America) so this engine will take a...

ttt

its complete with bearings/races and is still shimmed up from the rear that it was it. you just need to check the pattern and go!

needs to go. i could do $250 and ill pay shipping anywhere in lower 48. paid $300 for it and never used it

I purchased this center section from a friend and it only has 6 passes down the strip on it. clutch type posi unit. Im only selling it because I ended up going with a 8.75 rear in my duster so this has to go. $250 plus shipping. looks new, can barely see where the pinion rode on the ring gear

thanks for responses guys. i think im going to go with scat i beams with 8740 bolts. they say they're good for 650 hp for $300. at least ive heard of scat before haha

anyone used these? are they any good and do you know what kind of rpm/hp they would handle? i can't find any info on them and their website is shut down...

i was just really hoping it would be an easy fix but it just looks like a everything is wrong so i guess im gonna give up on finding the single cause of my issue. kinda sucks though. took me 5 years to get this far and now it time to take a break

that's pretty much what im thinking right now. im taking it all apart and I gotta wait til i have the cash to do everything right. everything will be checked at the local machine shop. no corners cut this time. oversize pistons and all. im just lookin around for stuff to sell at this point haha

not sure, think its a high volume though. I know that's a mistake for the build i did but thats what the guy ordered for it when we built the engine

i checked all the rod bearings and they look exactly like the mains, no pics though

new pump, pickup tube look good and as for the bearings, in the kit i got both halves have a hole in the middle for some reason but the holes are lined up with the oil galley on other side

primed it and it was 65 psi. when it was just barely running after we got it home it was about 60

yes the chunk somehow made it through the pickup screen and through pump, #3 main is not missing a chunk, just looks wierd in pic i see what you mean though. hex is fine on oil shaft and gear did not slip. dont know what the oil pressure did, no gauge in car just the idiot light, sorry

Well now im really confused. i inspected all main and rod bearings and everything looks fine. i took apart the oil pump and the chunk definately went through and caused a little damage (pic). all the cam bearings look questionable and the cam feels "sticky". i plan on getting them replaced by...

Just one large chunk and some powder. big piece is magnetic. got the engine out and on the stand. im tearing it down today and hope to get pictures up tomorrow

I will definately look into that. Now that you say that i realize i forgot to say last year i babied the car with the 904 and 7 1/4 rear. this year with the 4 spd and 8 3/4 i have spun it up to 5000 quite a few times. only when its warm though

yeah, right by the lake. don't see too many old mopars around here

cam spins freely right now. is that possible if the cam bearings are the issue?

yeah i realize that now, but i didn't know much at all 3 years ago (was only 15 years old) so i was just the eager kid doing what i was told and building a car with burger-flipping money haha. responding to moper

yeah its a 4 speed, when i got it home i checked everything with the cam, valve springs, lifters and oil pump i primed it and everything looked good. so i made the mistake of trying to start it again. oddly enough the starter cranked it fine but its a high torque mini starter, only thing that...

Im all ears, Id rather not do this again :banghead:

it didnt lock up, just tight. I did not check the main caps, i thought since it was a good running engine a quick re-ring and bearing change would be all it needed. i was on a really tight budget but looks like i didnt save myself any money now that this happened. I primed it before it was...

not sure. i havent taken it apart yet. i just cut apart the filter and some bearing chunks found their way in their in there. I guess im not sure its a main bearing but its definately in the bottom end. also last year i ran valvoline race oil 20w 50 (high zinc) and made the switch to amsoil this...

The crank measured out good so i polished the journals with 1000 grit and a shoestring if i remember right. The engine never went to the machine shop. internally balanced. I did not check the balance. I just did a quick, cheap rebuild because the oil rings were collapsed and it smoked bad. after...

Yes, i marked them and torqued them in three steps like i was told. I built this engine with a neighbor that raced stock cars and built a few mopar small blocks in his day