Search results for query: *

If you're creative you can come up with your own discbrake adapters and use all Mopar parts. I fabbed discs on drumspindles on 2 of my early '60s Chryslers. Using stock '73 C-body rotors, calipers and B-body adapters, it's all Mopar. Only down/upside is you have to switch to 15" wheels because...

Don't want to hijack the topic but I'm using the stock '73 A-body disc spindles with a homemade outer bearing collar to make up for the bearing difference in the '73 C-body rotors (11.75"/1.25"). With 2 simple washers behind the bracket the calipers lined up perfectly. Been daily driving this...

Remember that when you increase the brakeshoe width on the rear axle, there's more brake contact to the drums and the brakebias will also shift to the rear. Meaning the stock proportioning valve will not meter the correct amount of fluidpressure anymore and overbraking on the rear wheels will...

First thing to do is to get 'ungrown' to those cheap generic trailer-wheels. A factory steel wheel with a hubcap would tuck in the wheels nicely and look better at the same time as well. Then you could go with a 1 or 2 inches wider wheel in the rear to lessen the front/rear trackwidth.

Drive a bit until the wheels lock up. Then loosen the 4 bolts on the MC a few turns and check if the car will roll again. If so, the MC pushrod is too long. Very common and most likely issue, going by your description.

Besides the pedal-issue, you can't just increase the size of the rear brakes and expect everything is still fine. A brakesystem always needs to have a small bias to the front brakes. Meaning that the fronts should lock up first just before the rear ones do, in case of panic braking.

There's probably rust around the studs as well. You could wack those back a quarter or half an inch, this would free up the drum's movement around the hub too. Use a block of hardwood between the studs and hammer if you want to save them.

The bigger cars got the BUDD brake system in '67 and '68, also with 4 pistons per caliper. They worked quite nice on my '67 Newport... right untill the unobtanium seals started leaking because of the rusty cylinders in the calipers. The factory most likely found a cheaper to produce brake...

You can grind slots in brake pad material much easier. Heat is a function of brake performance. Or just buy better brake pads instead. What do you have now?

I've got big C-body rotors and calipers on the front and 10x2.5" drums on the rear, but my car's brakes are still rear biased. The best solution would be installing smaller diameter brake cylinders.

Upgrading rear brakes can also tilt the brake bias in the car to the rear brakes. Which could make them lockup earlier than the fronts, specially on wet roads. You don't want that. An adj. pressure valve in the rear line can solve this, but upgrading the front brakes would be a better option...

You're questioning the actual gender of the above posters? :sign12: My '73 318 A/C Dart, when I bought it, had front discs w/4.5" boltcircle and a 7-1/4" axle with 4" boltcircle and unmanly 9" drums. Not sure why but someone probably swapped some parts in the past.

IMO, forget the 4" wheel bolt-pattern. Whenever that 440 is put in the enginebay you'll need to upgrade the rearend and mostlikely you'll end up with a 4.5" boltpattern rearaxle anyway, and THEN you wished you had opted for a 4.5" boltpattern on the front tires aswell.

I think in your case I would try a tad smaller diameter MC first if you have enough pedaltravel left currently.

I run Hawk HPS on my daily '73 Dart. Can't give a real good comparison as I went from 20/30 year old semi-metallic brake pads to the Hawk HPS. My goal was to improve front brakes and the car's front/rear bias. They seemed like an improvement over what I had at first, but not shockingly big...

Imo the 11" rear drums cause too much bias. Best bet is to install smaller cylinders. My Dart has C-body calipers upfront with 11.75" rotors. 10" C-body rearaxle shortened to Abody size. At first I also had rear lockup issues but luckily I was able to 'tune' it away with better/softer tires.

The sliders on my '73 sure sounded like they where loose enough to drop off any time. Every once in a while I would rebend the tabs to give them some more preload on the calipers, but after soo many miles they probably lost strength and it started to sound like a swaybar or strutrod-bushing had...

I've had sliders on my '73 Dart. Didn't like the clunking noise like something was very loose on the car that the calipers started to make when the tabs lost their preload on them again. Switched over to a pin type bracket and bigger C-body caliper last year. No regrets.

Your brake pedal pushrod going into the MC is too long or doesn't have enough play. Adjust it with about 1/16" or 1/8" play and the problem will mostlikely be gone.

With the C-body rotors you also need the C-body calipers. I've made some spindle collars from a close-fitting piece of pipe-tubing at the time but I recently found the tubing material was too soft and deformed a bit after time. I'm currently redoing the collars by machining 2 cam lifters which...

I've always had cars with these shields mounted and never had issues with rain and deep puddles.Now with my discbraked converted Dart, I don't have the shields installed, but I now notice steeringwheel pulling during braking when I've just went through some deep waterpuddles. These things do...

That's what the internet is for these days. You can still sit all day and let people diss your work just as easy. But you save $30...! :D

Cut off the mounting pad of an old MC, grind/mill it flush (I use a lathe for this) and enlarge the center hole to the new MC size. Use the new Mc as a template to drill 2 new holes in the plate. Tap some threads in them. Done.

I see no mention of Pedal Ratio.Cars with manual brakes have a larger PR then power brake cars. As for the 4-2 bolt adapter, I always cut the mounting pad of an old MC, grind it flush, enlarge the center hole and drill two extra holes in the plate. Use the new MC as a template.

Pics of the setup someone above 'couldn't see working'... ;) I do need to change the stock MC for one with a larger diameter as the brakepedal-travel is fairly large now. But that's because the stock '73 front brakecalipers have a 2.597" piston-diameter, and the '73 Chrysler caliper has a...

So I finished the disc-upgrade on my '73 Dart yesterday; '73 A-body Disc-spindles '77 B-body Caliper brackets '73 C-body Calipers, 11.75" rotors and brakehoses Misc. items used: Four ±0.039" washers and 2 outerbearing spindle collars.

I didn't mention in my post that the brackets are from a '78 Dodge Charger I once owned. They fit on the spindles. Yes, for me it does. I can't use the same calipers as I have right now, as they are only for 1" wide discs, and they have become worn and rusty inside. Same for the current discs...

The (missing) caliper just clamps down on the pads, but it's also held in place by the pins. The caliper also holds itself 'square' when it clamps down on the pads and rotor. The pins in turn keeps everything in place again.

With some simple bearing-collars on the spindles you can mount '73+ C-body rotors without any problems. Minor shimming of the caliper brackets might be needed because of a slight difference in rotor-offset. I will be doing this changeover pretty soon on my '73 Dart...

I say your strutrod bushings are shot. Mainly the front bushings.