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Yeah it runs decent for a near stock 318, I built it for my '88 D150 and never got a chance to swap it before I sold the truck to a neighbor, it's pretty much a low/midrange motor and I shift it under 5500. The Dart will most likely get a mild low deck and a 3.54 Dana after I get the paint...

This is the Duster I sold a few months before picking up the Dart - had a mild 318/999/3.91 8.75 in it - ran 8.60's@84mph in the 1/8 on regular street radials. I need to get some updated pics of the Dart - since the last ones I've swapped in an 833 and swapped over to electronic ignition and...

This is the 2nd motor - I built this one, 87 roller 318 block .040" with KB167's, ported #302's with 1.88/1.60 valves, crane, .467/.494 cam also swapped in a narrowed 8.8 out of an explorer with 4.10/trac lok and picked up some 2nd hand draglites.

I bombed it down in satin black and threw together some interior for it - the dashpad is kinda hokey but I'll get a new one eventually, I swapped on a 67 rear bumper too, the original one was trashed and i couldn't locate a good 68-69 bumper at a reasonable price.

After the heavy rust repair was done I dropped in a '73 318/904 on the spool K frame already in the car to get it moving on it's own, the headers are some I had laying around hooked up to a Jegs 2.5" exhaust, it still has a 4.5" 7.25 rear at this point, Also got a quick coat of primer.

This is the pass side 1/4, before, after rust removal and after swapping a patch panel from a parts car, the drivers side was the same process, the section before the wheels was rotten on my parts car so I made that from 20ga sheetmetal.

This is the floor pans and trunk floor after it was patched up - got the front pans from year one, rear pans and spare tire well from a parts car, the primered pieces laying in the trunk are pieces to repair the rotted gutter around the trunk lid, snagged those from a parts car too.

This is a Dart I picked up in late '07 after selling my Duster- thought I didn't need or have time for a project car anymore and made it almost 3 months without one, This is after I swapped some sheetmetal that was trashed, put on some wheels and tires because it came with none and was working...

One of my friends stuck with them on his '65 for years because of how much they cost, when he put his '66 together he used hedmans and they're about the easiest but 1 tube had to be reworked to fit around the dual circuit MC, his '64 has TTI's and they're the worst to install- it's a 4 speed so...

Unless you paid full retail for the hookers I'd look for a set of hedmans - they're bigger and easier to work with - the 2 in 2 over the rail setup was a PIA to work with, the hedmans are 4 over the rail and almost fall in the car.

...the ends of the tube beveled in a lathe and welded them up, one of my friends thats a fabricator told me the weld is the strongest place in that tube now. I reworked a set of 3" perches to fit the larger tubes- had a friend open them up on his bridgeport and cut a 45* bevel for weld...

...breaking in a engine with a thermostat in place - I've always installed it after I break in the cam and change the oil, re-lash the valves etc. If it starts to get hot I put a shop fan in front of the car, if it's not warming up I block the radiator with some cardboard to keep it around 200*.

You will need new spring perches, even if the stock perches were the right width the pinion angle would be off anyways, the shockmounts are on the mounting plates so no change there. If you currently have a 7.25 you will need shock mounting plates from a mopar with 3" axle tubes - pretty much...

Cool project, my first car was a 73 340 Duster, it was a base model tan/tan bench interior with PS/PB, column shift 727, 3.21sg. It was a real sleeper when it was new with no stripes and full wheel covers. I ended up parting it in '95, it had been sitting on the ground in a swampy area for...

There's a huge difference between TTI's and regular shelf headers but it mainly comes down to your priorities- I always build my junk on a budget- tight one at that so I'll run the $159 hookers and find a better place to spend the other $600. We put TTI's on my buddys Dad's car but he has a...

It will fit and work but it's most likely a lighter duty trans and clutch set up unless it's been changed along the way. My 68 Dart is/was a 273/833 car and it has the lighter duty 833 with a 26 spline output and a 9.5" clutch. I built a better 318 for it and found a 10" clutch that fits...

It's been a while but here's the 8.8, had it under the car for about 2 years now.

If the pan doesn't show I know who has one, he has 5-6 early A's, 2 race cars, 1 street strip and a few projects, if you need anything for narrow A body or a small block he probably has 3 of them.

Hey Jon this is Joe - James C's friend from the fairgrounds show. Saw the Valiant a few days ago as I work about 3/4 mile from there, looks like a great start- whats in the works for a drivetrain?

For a track only car I'd start looking for a running 440/727 combo out of a C body or motorhome, if it runs good throw in fresh rod & main bearings, MP .509 cam and springs, RPM manifold w/800-850 DP and 2" fenderwell headers, we ran this combo in a friends 70 Dart for years with a 10" TA...

http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=EH706 http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MS-920

67-68 383 ,68 340 and all 69+ Use the 727 yoke, 66-68 /6, 273 and 318 833's use the 904 sized slip yoke and a different tailshaft housing, I'm talking about A body 833's so that may be part of the confusion, all B&E 833's use the 727 sized yoke. I didn't know there was a difference either...

You're better off piecing it together, a 68 318 Dart 833 has a small 904 sized output shaft and a 9.5" clutch, the bell/flywheel is specific to a 67-68 273/318 A body, the pedals also have plastic bushings instead of metal bearings like a 340/383 car. The Z bar and clutch linkage pieces would...

You won't hurt the trans it will take out the ring & pinion or U joints first, it you go to a Dana60, 1350 joints and slicks it will tear up the clutch. I knew someone putting 700+hp thru a 23 spline and eventually hurt 3rd gear but it was a 470" motor with 440-1 indys and spray.

If you're not chasing ET stick with the manifolds, one of my friends with a 64 Valiant was running 12.90's with 273 logs and iron 4 barrel intake on a 360, it was a standard rebuild with KB107's, cut the heads for 2.02's and has a 284/.528 solid, he had an old factory AFB on it too. The ET...

I have the 10" clutch kit in my 68 318 Dart, the disc is good, I had a local clutch shop swap to stiffer springs and add another set in the pressure plate but otherwise it's fine, can't beat it for the price. I'm not sure if it would hold up to 300hp and sticky tires, I'm only making 250hp or...

They will fit fine, esp since you still have small bolt wheels, I had 215/65's on the front of my 68 Dart with 73 BBP discs and 15x7 cop wheels, the track width is about 2" wider than a SBP car and I didn't have problems.

Unmetered air causes run-on, you can crank the timing back to stop it but that hurts performance. Try closing the throttle blades as far as they will go without the engine stalling and see if it still runs on, if it still does afterward look at the carb gasket, open vac ports or cracked hoses...

If 57.5" is the width of the axle flanges its the right rear, another place to check is the perches, if it's 43-44" from hole to hole its an A body rear. Most of the charts list width across the housing ends, not counting the axles/brakes etc.

I used to run 727's but they're kinda overkill for a A body, they are stronger but a good 904 is worth almost 2/10's on the average 13sec car. One of my friends swapped to a 904 in his 340 swinger when it was running 11.60's and went in the 11.40's the next time out, it runs 9.80's now and...