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67 years young, street raced in the 70s. Went to a mopar event at an old 1/8 track when I was 64. I made 6 passes that day, I was hooked. I started racing at Wagler Motosports Park. I finished second in points my rookie year. I raced 4 races a month. Now they race 3 in one day, in the middle of...

Not really flat or faded, just kind of weather checked.

Indeed. I was standing just to the left of Stoney...

We shouldn't have to, but it's not a bad idea. The thing is though, if the metallurgy is crap to begin with, I don't know how much nitriding will help. At this point, I'm trusting a reground stock core more and more.

:p It was road trip day today. I traveled two hours North. The seller traveled two hours South and met up with me in Calgary. Then I took the wife shopping and out for dinner. It needs body work, but hey, I seem to be addicted to that stuff! I gotta trade the 69 inserts for some 68's.

I have no intentions of rebuild the calipers on the car. New, or reman replacement calipers are readily available for relatively cheap. About $85 with a $20 core each, or $86 each for new ones from Rockauto. The rotors have been the complicated part the whole time, but it appears SSBC still...

I'm pretty certain that rotor also fits some Ford applications, but that wouldn't explain why they make it longer.

Yesterday inspire me daily had an older female Marine in full dress. It was very cool. Great site!

Yes because I thought I didn’t do it this time.

What about getting cam and lifters "nitrided" or whatever that coating is?

I can see the glow. Looks shiny from here. Was it faded out and flat before?

Lingenfelters brackets

I vote, keep what you have. Along with a functioning choke, hopefully correct throttle and kickdown linkage. Provisions for AC compressor brackets-the way Ma Mopar planned it. Who cares about weight on a street cruiser.

With Comp, I'm unsure it's "just" bad lifters. We'll likely never know.

*made out of a cheaper material

First, have you 100% verified the temperatures with an IR heat gun? If so, how is the fan driven? The water pump pulley should ideally be a little smaller than the crank pulley.

I’ve heard that as well as I’ve heard the cams being ground out of a cheaper mattress and/or being hardened incorrectly.

You need to pressure test the whole system. I had the same issue and it was a bad radiator cap. It was new.

1.55 springs opens a can of worms with some of these heads.

I probably shouldn't press it lol

Well done!

Troublemaker. Lol

Thanks dude!

Close the ad by marking it sold below the title above.

Where's those shirts lol

My guess was going to be torque wrench. I've run ARP bolts and studs for the last 15 years and never had problems. My current 408 runs in at a shade under 12 to 1 but my 416 will be closer to 13 to 1. I'm toying with the idea of o-ringing the block on the 416.

Sold it....for nothing

Hello all, I just finished a complete cooling system overhaul on the car and I am overheating at idle. When I go for a cruise it runs fine and normal temps are observed while moving like 170 on highway and 200 when going slow. When I'm parked and idling it climbs and climbs to 240, than I shut...

Pm sent, hoping for 4, not being greedy like the clown above.

Affirmative...but the compooter say it's aaaall gude............