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Thanks it's finally coming together. Adding socks and headlight mounts today! It was cancelled due to rain. There aren't anymore drag racing event till July unfortunately. I do have some dirt circle track events I'm going to try to run at in May. Need to get shocks on the front end and build a...

I set the toe to 1/8" in and that helped greatly with the front end. I also made some modifications to the brake pedal to make the pushrod more inline with the master cylinder. The car stops a lot better now but I'd like to improve on it though. ( no photos of that right now) but..... I do...

It has to be a very long reamer with a pilot bit or set up in a honing machine as the 2 holes have to be aligned exactly so the king pin slides through.

I got the starter installed and it works great! I went to drive it to a friend's house to do some welding and discovered some front end issues and wasn't able to make it to do the work so I doubt I will be racing this season. It looks like the king pins bushings are wore out on the front...

Thanks I'm finally starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel! Hoping to have at some events starting in mid April

I haven't finished the seat yet but I did get a new starter that will allow more room for exhaust and moving the steering box closer to the firewall. It's the 2007 Ram 5.7L manual transmission starter and it sure makes a big difference in space and weight! I need to get some longer bolts as...

Making some slow but steady progress. I made a bracket setup for the throttle and kickdown cables and the return springs. The 2 barrel carb drives nice and has a lot more pep. The next warm day I will take it down to my "testing grounds" and use the Drag Racer app to see if i turn a better 1/8...

That supercharged setup even with 1 carb would look cool on my roadster but yea that's a whole lot of money and i'd probably have to upgrade the dana 35 rear end i'm using too.

Thanks yea just trying to help identify it in case we sell it at a swap meet or if someone can use it on here. He did part out an early 70s charger so it may be from that

About 23"

How should I measure it? Straight length from end to end or follow the tape along the bends?

Does anyone recognize what this kick down linkage is off of? My dad had several Mopara and collected parts off other from the junkyard.

I was able to drill the hole using a new bit and my drill press after removing the shaft from the carb. I measured the length of the lever on the trans and made this one to match.Just need to finish up the mount for the cables and get that painted and hook everything up.

I'm not dissing them but these aren't as effective as the ones that would have come on Mopara

Haha I will stick with the slant six. I only have 40 ford drum brakes up front and drums in the rear too

Mine didn't have that red spacer thing. But I was able to drill the hole using my drill press at work. I'm working on the arm now and then will put the shaft back in the carb

Yea it would have been simple if it was an easy metal to drill into haha. This stromberg is different then those but i will look to see if i get any ideas. The big issue is i can't take the lever off since it's rivets to the shaft or else i'd just make another lever and add it to the shaft

Yup also not sure if the stock setup would even work as I'm using a Stromberg WW3 carb I bought from Slant six dan. I believe it was intended for a 318 but works better than the Holley 2280 I had.

Not sure it Not sure if that would work since it's not in the original car. I've never seen the original setup so not sure if anything mounted to the firewall in the original car

well this has become more a of PITA than I expected! I guess the lever on the carb is stainless and I can't manage to drill a hole in it. I can not take the lever off so I have to use a cordless drill, I put a block of wood between the lever and the carb body so i'm not putting excessive...

Maybe it's a fun free key chain haha. Yea I see the distributor gaskets that Halifax sells. Definitely way different

I was just guessing based on size so I could be way off haha

Maybe the cork one is for under the distributor

Thanks for the info fellas I'm going to make the peice this week and maybe I will try to ad multiple holes in case I need to adjust it. I read up more on the Lokar set up instructions and the main thing is to set the cable tension so at WOT the trans kickdown lever is pulled all the way.

the cable needs to be pulled to operate the kickdown lever on the trans correctly so this lever should work. I will crawl under the car later and take a measurement of the kickdown lever on the trans but estimating just now it was about 2.5" unfortunately i won't have enough room at the carb to...

I'm working on hooking up a kickdown cable to a Stromberg WW carb. The car is a track roadster (build thread here) I'm building so that's why I'm using the kickdown cable versus the stock setup. Does this look like something that should work fine? The yellow piece will be a 1/2" wide (not to...

The Lokar part number 625-WCA-1034 worked great. It clips onto the ball on the throttle lever and allows for a cable to be attached. Now on to trying to make a bracket for the throttle and kickdown cables

When I bought this Ram i specifically told the salesman I want a Ram 1500 without e torque. Luckily he didn't push it or I would have walked. I've read a lot of issue with that system and the slight benefit doesn't seem anywhere worth it.

Haha i was pretty tempted to do that!

Looks like the lokar part should work, the socket is removable from the ball. Part should be here this week. Now onto making the bracket. Going to need to get creative with the slant six mounting options. I will mark this thread as found if the lokar part works out