Search results for query: *

Yes I actually saw that too. There is also a modelling powder that uses the same technique. I think it's mostly graphite powder but it looks really close to chrome when applied over a black base.

Yes I actually read that thread from a previous post you sent mw. Lots of good stuff, and also entertaining I might add. I was more curious about why some bezels were woodgrain with silver below and some woodgrain with black below.

I'm still pondering what i'm going to do with my dash bezel. If I repair it instead of replacing it, I started to sand the chrome in anticipation of possibly painting it or maybe hydro dipping it if I get ambitious. I'm also a little confused on why some bezels are black and silver like mine and...

Yowsers. Harsh visual.

I guess it depends on how picky you want to be. I had a buddy who bought fiberglass fenders for a '69 and he ended up throwing them away as he just couldn't get them to look right. Not sure of the manufacturer.

Welcome! :canada:

Do you have puffed wheat in the cupboard? I heard that makes TV's come alive at night.

Provided the cover appeared similar and could be painted to match, I would still buy.

Nice project. :thumbsup: I'm doing one for my buddy right now. Same color but white interior and top. Stroked 360 from Blueprint.

Oh yeah. Them's mean 'n' nasty.

Yup. I've done a few and maybe I'm slow, but there is no easy way to do a-body quarter glass. They just suck.

Welcome and good luck. :canada:

If I were to go with a VR, I would want one that looks OEM.

Me neither. I leave before they can.

:lol:

You mean it's small?

Take it every day. I still ache but whatever :wtf:

^^^^^ Yes. Solvent popping can occur when you recoat or topcoat too soon. If the undercoat is still gassing out, spraying over it too soon can prevent the undercoat from releasing. We are talking about using sealers here.

With Omni, I generally wait until it tacks off. I have never had solvent popping doing it that way. If you can touch it without transfer or smearing, you are good to go. The 72 hours is a time frame that allows you to topcoat up to that time. between 2 and 24 hours is a generally workable time.

I was around for all of them except two. 66.

:popcorn:

That IS cool! Wonder why Dodge didn't do that? Not big on the orange dash, but it's a nice car based on the pics.

That is how I removed mine. I detached the glass/mount assembly from the regulator and slid it out the top of the window opening. Then slid the regulator assembly out. The a-body quarter glass assemblies are a real bear to work on. Getting it back in is harder than taking them out.

Just imagine the clamping force!

Actually some primers you can also use as a sealer. You need to read the tech bulletin for the product you are using but many of them simply need additional reducing. Sort of like "sandwiching" the products.

Epoxy is really just a straight resin type primer. Generally speaking, It's main purpose, besides rust prevention, is to promote adhesion between bare metal and whatever is going over top of the epoxy. @DesertRat is doing it right. Epoxy (or any DTM) primer, then the high build.

Some self etching primers are harsh and may wrinkle certain primers. If the etch primer is old or aged, there should be no problem. Sealers are generally made to go over any substrate to promote adhesion and block any reaction to whatever it's going over to the top coat.

Khaaaaaaaaaan!

If you are working with a product that tacks over quick, dip your finger in reducer. Works perfect.

I thought blueprint engines gave you a print out of the dyno test with the engine???