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put the wheel nuts on the studs and press the studs out first, the hub will almost fall out then and with the nuts on the studs the studs won't be harmed and can be reused

I doubt it, since brake fluid is not a petroleum product like oil or gas it does not eat rubber (this is why you don't put anything but brake fluid in any braking system), however it will remove paint better then any paint striper so don't get any on painted surfaces

thats a pretty good sign of a bypassing master cylinder. I think the technical term is bypassing on the primary piston of the MC. also check the booster when you take the MC off for signs of a fluid leak before you unbolt the lines

I'm guessing the fluid is bypassing in the master cylinder. you will never find a leak and the pedal may seem normal at times then other times nearly go hard to the carpet

the only other things you would need is pads, flex hoses rotors and a new master cylinder. it pays to shop around. have you checked rockauto.com? there prices are unbeatable if you don't mind waiting a few extra days and your not in a rush

thats what I am told that is part of the benifits is it won't harm paint, I dont have any paint peeling and I did spill a drip on the at the time newly painted master cylinder

also adding to what you said, if a person doesn't bleed/flush there brakes yearly when it comes time for opening the system it ends up costing more then brake fluid

I do it will all my cars, they all get the yearly brake bleed, that way if I need to open up the system to replace a line I don't end up doing a caliper or wheel cylinder unexpectedly

bought mine for the '66 valiant (american dart style) from napa

basically just if water gets in it rusts things, but if a person is smart they will flush the system every year or 2 to make sure the fluid doesn't get dirty and the bleeders continue to work

bought a 1978 dodge that has been upgraded to DOT 5 fluid, you'll love DOT 5, its been 10 years since I bought it and the lines still look like new its had the fluid in it since I got it (who knows how long before I bought it) fluid is a purple in color

yupp early mustangs were 4 bolt, same as capri and I believe pinto. I would rather go with Mustang 5 bolt if I didn't have another mopar choice as its easy to get (likely going with redrilled F's or M's as thats what I have), pinto... well they haven't made those in nearly 30 years

kelsey Hanyes, theres a name that means money and hard to find. I could admagine what napa would say if I casually walked in on a saturday morning and asked for a caliper. IF they had one I would have to work the whole week to pay for just one:wack:

I already have SBP slots and am looking to keep them, was thinking about going with 73+ big ball joint spindles with redrilled volare rotors for the 4" bolt pattern

I'm all for it, except mustangs are 5x4.5 and the kit may not appeal to everyone with an early A body

I think you'll find both sets of hoses you ordered will be idenical as the ones you have they use the same calipers as a 1983 M (I have 2- 78 volares and numberous M's) the M bodies have the calipers mounted in the front of the rotor so your going to have abit of troubles finding the correct...

screwdriver, just shove it in on an angle (accross the opening into the opposite side) and pry down the seal will pop right out. then it can be replaced

remove the seal and the bearing will fall out, the bearing race will need to be removed and a new one put in if your putting new bearing in (they come as a set)

yupp, pressure runs from the pump to the hydroboost, then from hydroboost to steering box, the hydroboost needs a return line as well so I T'd into the factory return line coming from the box, it works good but I think I need an aftermarket higher pressure pump or something of that sort as it...

if your upgrading to kelsey hanyes disc's I strongly advise you go with a dual circuit master cylinder. As far as the brake booster is concerned you don't need to but it makes a world of difference I couldn't find a vaccum booster around my area so I opted for hydroboost from a chebby diesel it...

If it was me I would put in a proportioning valve from a newer 4 wheel drum brake car, I did with the 66. A proportioning valve helps if one of the front or rear line ruptures you still have brakes. The same is true if you just run a line out of the master cylinder to the front and then a...

would you sell the one pictured? (brackets and all?)

I also got mine at napa for the 66, carquest carries them as well

it sounds like the booster, but check the check valve first before replacing the booster

lol sounds like the booster maybe the problem then. Is it getting proper vacuum? the hose could be partically pluged

Check to see that the booster is actually getting vacuum with a vacuum gauge (18-22") at idle. If your car has an irratic idle with lots of duration/lift on the cam you may not be able to run a booster as your engine may not make enough vacuum

alot of people have used scarbird brakes. His kits consist of off the shelve parts you could pick up at any parts store on a saturday and be back on the road the same day, heres a link to the brakets http://www.scarebird.com/index.php?id=30 and the whole kit...

not too recently the ball joints were done, but it only has 5000 miles and maybe 6 years on them:)

okay, but going with a F body spindle do I need the big ball joint spindles, I currently have 9" drum brakes, I have heard other members meation using ball joint sleeves? would sleeves be unsafe?

Does F/M/J spindles on an A body cause bumpsteer? I don't want out of book anwsers, I want someone with experience in driving a car that they have done the swap on. I have numberous F body cars around and would like to put the disc brakes on an early A body, will they fit where my 9" drum...