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I did it on my 75 Duster...Removed the trunk floor, and cut the the frame rails off just behind the rear wheels, removed rear crossmember too Fabbed the rails by welding 2 bent sections together to make a channel

check wiring...is regulator grounded properly? did you buy a cheap one?....ive had them off the shelf no good

I run a Carter/Edelbrock 625 on my 340 and i much prefer it over a holley

I made my own using the stock base and welding on square tubing, making it adjustable with drilled holes and a 1/2" pin...used a front end bumper on the top...I run it around 1" from the floor for the street

I would have thought buying some set screws would be easier and better looking..just my 2 cents

Id be more interested in torque and not HP if you are going to drive it mostly on the street You wont have any fun on the street with an engine that thats powerband doesnt start until 3000rpm The XE cams are designed to work well with stock heads, allowing the exhaust to breathe a bit better...

Even when I put mine together with new bushings, new shifter, rebuilt trans, and adjusted the rods as per the manual, I still had to make an adjustment, as it was barely going in 3rd and got stuck in 4th on me you may very well have a worn out shifter, but what you can try is to make an...

all im saying is if everything is correct and it still makes noise,like you said, sometimes you can deviate from what the manufacture had intended to correct it rather than buying another gear set or living with it If you want to live with a whiny gear set or change em until you find one that...

I got to disagree with that to a point... in a perfect world, yes, you use your tool, +/- whats marked on the pinion and theoretically it where is supposed to be... suppose the pattern doesnt come right and is noisy..it does happen..ive seen it...and corrected it by +/- shims on the pinion...

fenderwells weaken the car...not a great idea..not for street anyway

how do you know the pinion depth is correct? just wondering how you detrmined this? if you used a measuring tool, or equivalent that is only a place to start from...you need to take a pattern and adjust from there sometimes

you learn something new everyday :)

flex fans are notorious for a blade coming off and through the rad at the most inoportune times id go with the clutch if you prefer to stay original like, electric if not

i run .045-.050" on same set up as you

I used to have that size on my 75 duster, on 10" aluminum slot wheels....stock spring location...they were maybe 1/4" from the spring and hung out a couple inches past the quarter panel... got rid of them when we did the body over, as they would ocassionally fetch up in the quarter

2.5" mufflers are made to fit 2.5" pipe you dont weld it becuase if you ever have to change the mufflers or a pipe you are screwed I used some nice band type muffler clamps on mine, cost a little more , but doesnt distort the pipe

2.5" mufflers will be a liitle big to accomodate the 2.5" pipe mufflers go before the rear end generally and dont weld them..use a clamp

Use a dab of permatex ultra copper on the threads

idle screws are better set with a vacuum gauge

ya...the intakes/exhausts can warp machined one for a guy a few years ago....what a pig to set up...and it was warped alot...more than 1/8"

stay with the edelbrock the idle screws have nothing to do with anything but idle fuel metering sounds like a needle or jet swap down a size or 2...buy a kit and drop it down until it doesnt do it anymore...a better indication would be to check the plug colour I run a 625cfm on a 400hp...

id get an aftrmarket gauge bluefish, and see where it is exactly..factory gauges are notoriously inacurate... i dont think its anything to worry about if you want to bring it down a bit consider upgrading that 4 blade fan...the A/C water pump should have increase flow compared to a stocker

Increase vibration transfer is also another down side only thing good about a gear drive set up is timing accuracy and you'll probably never wear it out (steel on steel gears that is...id never run a fibre gear drive)

Same?....No A disc brake valve, is actually a combination valve it has a proportioning valve for the drum brakes and a metering valve for the disc master cylinders are also not the same from drum to disc...an all drum cylinder would have residual pressure valving on both ports

call chrysler dealership

how much over 200F? 200 is not a big deal your boiling point would be over 250F your running temp is going to increase...more compression and thinner cylinder walls

your window will also have adjustment as well

pickup is way too far off the floor of the pan...should be almost touching to 1/4" off also a baffled pan may help

If its leaking bad there a good possibility the seal surface on the yoke is damaged clean it up and inspect when you get it out...any grooves and you either want a new yoke or a 'speedy-sleeve' to repair it

you got fluid at each wheel when bleeding, with some pressure behind it? is there a valve in the system?