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Get them shotpeened,magna fluxed, resized and rebushed and you should be fine nothing to worry about

7.514" is stock hydraulic length

Pistons usually have a notch or something to indicate the front of the engine...also, assuming they were assembled correctly, the notches in the rod that keep the bearing from spinning should point outwards.. As far as what cylinder they go in, if you didnt mark them when you dissassembled...

this noise has been in it since you got it and it only has 2000 miles on it?? where did you get it?...who rebuilt it? regardless, its sounding like a tear down and check job to me repair for piston slap is probably going to be a rebore and new pistons, but since it was just...

have you actually checked with your gauge it is ported? i.e. no vacuum at idle? just saying what i would check myself

is your vacuum advance line ported or manifold vacuum?

piston slap is the result of your bore/and or pistons being worn out The piston skirts slap the cylinder wall as they rock back and forth at TDC as the engine warms up, the metals expand and the clearances close...less noise

If its con rod knock, it is usually more evident when the engine is cruising..pull the wires one at a time and the noise should go away or be quieter on the cylinder in question A wrist pin noise will be a double knock most evident at idle...check same way piston slap is also a...

Yes

GL-5 will not agree with your 4 speed...use GL-4 I use amsoil myself with no problems If you read an old service manual they will state dexron came in them, and if they were noisy, or whatever, use gear lube right there, to me, thats mopar saying dexron wasnt such a great idea Its really not...

easy to get parts for...one thing to watch out for is if its a 2.45 ratio you will need a different carrier to go to the gear ratios you want...I run 8 1/4" in my 75 340 duster, 400hp and no problems, but im not out torturing it either...if your draging id probably recommend going to an 8 3/4"...

sector shaft seal remove pitman arm, remove seal snap ring, start car and seal should pop out ,if not turn the wheel to create enough pressure, check shaft for wear/grooving where the seal runs... If its grooved up, repair/replace sector shaft and seal...if its not that bad, clean it up with...

if you want to get technical, you should always use new keepers on new valves, like i stated, or if using old valves, the keepers should remain with the valve they were on, as they make a wear/mating pattern and changing this can theoretically cause cracking/breakage etc.

if they are new valves, yes never use old keepers on new valves

I discussed this with my buddy after posting earlier, who is also a mechanic of 30 yrs, and he used alot off copper for fuel lines and says hes never seen one break from vibration,hardening,etc.. of course we use it here for the corrosion resistance more than ease of installation

there no real cure in a bottle... do it proper and get the valve seals look at at least and find the external leak

im in Amherst,NS #7

air shocks are NOT meant to raise a car..its a mickey mouse way to do it buy new, re arch, or maybe your current shocks are done and allowing it to bottom out>?

every 90 degree turn the oil makes it cuts the flow down a significant amount I use a short filter and i drilled an extra 4 holes in the plate, so it has 8 rather than 4

you dont want to use the adapter unless absolutely necessary, and it shouldnt be with you stock manifolds, use the short filter

i run headers into a x pipe i made, into 40 delta flowmasters into TTI tailpipes on my 75 duster 340 and im very pleased with the sound. Lets not forget the flowmasters are designed to improve exhaust scavenging, so they can also help your performance/hp compared to a cheap muffler or glass pack...

i have them on my 75 duster 340 and mine are offset in the front and centered in the rear....into TTI 2.5" mandrel tail pipes, that fit excellent, by the way

i prefer edelbrock/carter for street use

I run amsoil GL-4 in the trans Castrol sythetic GL-5 in the rear...make sure its something with the additive in it for sure grips DONT put GL-5 in the trans...

need to mill the intake or intake side of the heads....if you just had this done, a good machine shop would have milled the intake side the correct amount without question If the holes dont line up, neither do the ports

I 2nd the extreme energy comp cams..i run a 268XE in my 340 w/385hp

Mopar M1 dual plane or edelbrock performer plain and simple for your described application

go weld in...wouldnt waste the $ on bolt ons if you do a seach you can probably find the thread where i explain how i made my own

"posi" is blasphamy in the mopar world say "sure-grip" in addition to the above comments, the single track unit is weaker itself in design...not performance oriented...depending on what you are planning to do with it...i only run mine on the street and would not have a single track..just...

it should be long enough to stick out both sides a bit and is intended to slide in the ear