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Went to remove shifter knob and twisted cable off the the stud end and cracked the chrome button (can glue back together. I am stranded until I find a cable.

I can't flip it over but may try to heat and remove the tang and weld under neath. Any suggestions out there?

I made it a year and I am here to support anyone else who decides to start this noble adventure.

That is what mine looks like and that is a idea to rebend the end. I may try that if I can't find one at a reasonable price. Thanks for the idea.

I need the linkage like in the link picture that has the trnasmission kick down spring atttached and has the slot end that can be turned to adjust the lenght. The linkage I have now has the tang welded on top pointing in toward the carb instead of below pointing out toward the driver fender to...

I know this is a "wish list" but I can't afford new parts. 1969 Dart parts wanted.

Wow.

Thank you everyone. The covers were still hitting the intake. I took more material off twice before final bolt down. Dremel is a great tool. I took Redfastback's suggestion and used Fel Pro extra thick gaskets. I like how they felt as they bolted down. Two test drives and no leaks. Cool.

It sounds like I am not alone. If I had known, I don't think I would have bought them. The reason I bought them is because there should be less flex and seal better??? The wife just called now I have a second leak, this one is gas from where the fill tube goes into the gas tank. I guess i filled...

I did have to grind both covers in spots because they hit the runners on my Edelbrock LD340 intake but there is plenty of clearence now, I think. The cover directions call for 95 inches of torque, is that pretty tight with a 3/8 drive? All I have is a pounds torque wrench. Maybe over tightening...

I just replaced the stock valve covers with mopar cast aluminum. They look cool but can not get them to not stop leaking. I used the mopar steel/rubber gaskets and think this is the problem or maybe I over tightened them. I don't have a inch torque wrench. What can I get local at say Auto Zone...

This site is more like a club, gang and/or group and the members truly want to help each other. Thanks Adam for all the time you spend administrating this site.

Thanks but WOW is that expensive. Must be where Mancini Racing is getting their radiators.

Wizard Cooling? What's their web address?

super70bird thank you for the link, I printed it. And as always, Dave you are a great help.

Dave, I am interested in the Radio Shack 7805 linear 5v regulator and heat sink. Are they separate items? Or is it one unit that plugs in or do I make my own connectors/wiring?

I will be on the look out at the swap meets next sping.

The attached E-bay "For Sale" car has the valve cover I want but who makes them and were can I order them from. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/69-Dodge-Dart-Swinger-SURVIVOR-Amazing-Shape_W0QQitemZ320182353728QQihZ011QQcategoryZ6201QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Whitney has foil faced both sides fire retardant fiber filled 3/8" thick 4' x 6' floor insulation for $9.99. I bought 3 rolls for $39 including shipping. I know it is not the best stuff but for the price I can use it. Just a FYI in case anyone is interested.

Adjusted secondary linkage to open earlier and now I can hear the air suck in when I open her up. No bog and runs good but have I went too far or not far enough? I still don't have the roar I am looking for. I have been adjusting all summer and am getting close. FYI, I also have adjusted the...

...and the ping is gone. Put the vacuum canister back to original setting and connected the vacuum to the constant side and still no ping. I am now going to move the timing back up from 14* to as near to 18* as possible. Looks like I got it solved, thanks to everyones help. "A bodies only" rules.

When is someone going to make rubber o-ring thermostat housings for us? Cheby and Furd have them.

...passenger port and the "mainold vacuum" driver side front port and they both ping. I am going to back the initial plus mechanical down from 34* to 31*. If I get no ping in a test run with the vacuum advance disconnected I will try with it connected and if I get a ping I can always turn the...

...good ping at higher RPM foot to the floor and hitting it to the floor in general. I checked timing with the vacuum pluggged off and was still 18*idle, 34*@ 3200rpm (which is what my FBO distributor was curved to) but for kicks after checking the timing I hooked the vacuum up and it goes to...

When I pulled the old one out the plates were a different better style in my opinion. To fix the new distributor I bought a longer set screw for the gap adjustment and filed it down to a length that just touches the lower plate which stablized the wobble condition.

The FBO distributor is 18* initial, initial + mechanical 34* and 10* vacuum. You have me thinking, the gas tank is half full with last fall's gas with Sta-bil fuel additive. I think I will top off the tank and change to Champion 11s. Thanks for the suggestions.

I am going to try both sides for the heck of it. Ever since I replaced my distributor with a FBO recurve, at high speed to the floor I get detonation clatter. I may put my Mopar performance curved distributor back in just to confirm what the cause is. If it clatters with either distributor I am...

I just installed a new Eddy 650 AVS and it is great. Went to Albion, Pa Mopar show and 70% of the cars with my carb had the distributor vacum hooked to the passenger front port (timed vacum) and 30% had it connected to the driver side front port (constant vacum). Why and which is right?

Bought a Edelbrock AVS 650. It seems the most trouble free.

I can get a Edelbrock thunder AVS 650 for $375 or a Holley street avenger 650 with dual fuel line and mopar adapter about $408. I have to get a carb before next Sunday's Albion,Pa Mopar Club show. Would have liked to get a Demon Speed 650 but by the time I add all the accessories I am put to...