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It's not going to either. THe internals of the switches are different from the OEM switches. I recently went thru this myself. You'll have to map out the circuit and pin it out so that it lines up with the dash side of the harness. It took me a few days of internet reading and reading thru...

I did some more digging and a local to me store (International Electronics in Corpus Christi where I've been able to source just about everything else I've needed) did not have any of this size in stock, but suspects that they're made by Amphenol

Thanks! Molex is a manufacturer that makes products for every industry. It'll take a while to dig thru their website. I know that these terminals are still made, as when you buy a new ignition switch, these connectors are supplied in the connection that comes with it.

This thread has turned into quite the resource. I'm currently going thru another ignition switch on a Mopar (Duster this time). Last time I bought all the pieces to build a weatherpack connector which worked, but will not slide thru the column for future replacement :(. This time I'm just...

These are what I use with success. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045CUMLQ/?tag=fabo03-20

Thanks! Do you happen to know the length of your upper cable? I've found a few on ebay, but not sure which length to get.

this is amazing and your car is nothing short of amazing too. I'm on the hunt to replace the Speedometer cables on my wife's 75 Duster 360 which is a factory cruise control car. What source did you use for the Upper & Lower cruise control cables?

I know I'm bumping a thread that's almost a year old....but does anyone know of a source of the replacement switches for these rear defrosters? My wife's Duster 360 has this setup but the switch is bad.

I’m going to use a time sert rather than a helicoil. I’ll buy some ultra black RTV in the hole followed by a stud. It’ll be water tight.

I've only found 1 440 engine around here (from a preacher in Aransas Pass of all places and people)...all the mopar's I own came out of Central & North TX. I'm not a big fan of rusty junk...My Father-in-law in Central TX is the one who got me into this financially suffocating hobby :)

awesome. Iv (actually my wife) has this faded purple Duster 360 and I have a 70 Coronet R/T and also building a 74 Ramcharger with a 440 and 1 ton axles under it. Not many Mopar people around here. I only know two (not including our local flipper who I’m cordial with, but try not to interact with)

I noticed you posted that you're in South TX....what Part? I'm from Kingsville but have lived in Portland since 2005

I the widest part of that hole was .302 so luckily I'm able to put a 1/4-20 time sert in it. I ordered the 1/4-20 master kit and 10 .500 length inserts. I'll thread a stud in with some RTV and be good to go. Tomorrow I'll re-work the lip on the valve cover and make sure that they're good...

whoever *tried* to get that bolt out was very close....I have no idea why they gave up at this point and epoxied in a stud.

yep...it was a piece of an extractor.... the good news is that I put some more hate into it, used a small punch, then worked a burr some more into the broken extractor, then put my shop vac on it and had a geyeser. I guess the previous hack drilled all the way thru the bolt into the water...

Part of the problem is that there is already a tool broken off in it...Not even my burr could eat it up. I have one of these left over from having to chew up an E Z out in a bolt that I broke off in a 440 block. It was already pretty worn, but it was too dull from its previous jobs to cut...

So last week I decided to take the RPM Air-Gap I had for my wife's Duster 360 that's been in the attic for 10 years and bolt it on. Simple right? Not if you know me. I pulled everything off, cleaned up & painted bits & pieces to freshen up the engine bay to not look like such a jalopy and on...

I ended up buying this heater valve on eBay too (I bought three of them) 3846483 CHRYSLER 1975 Dodge Dart A C Heather Control Valve New ORIGINAL MOPAR | eBay all I did was take a 4x4 piece of scrap lumber and the second bend on the bracket I flattened it out and drilled two holes to use the...

so I mocked it up to try and help myself figure this out. From the Intake Hose Nipple which is 1/2 to the Heater Control Valve inlet which is 1/2 Then from the Heater Hose Nipple Outlet which is 5/8 to the Heater Core 5/8 Then from the 1/2 Heater Core back to the Water Pump 5/8 Nipple...

an old timer told me that the LD340 intake was just an aluminum version of the 1970 340-4 Intake. I just bolted an RPM Air-Gap intake to my wifes 75 Duster 360. The bosses for the factory A/C compressor lined up (it was taped for a smaller bolt which was no biggie) and clears under the hood...

(cool serpentine setup you've got there :thumbsup: ) then that has me back to being confused about the heater hose routing. On the heater core coming out of the firewall, the pipe is for 1/2" heater cose (driver side) and the one on the passenger side is for 5/8 heater hose. I was going to run...

I'm in the process of swapping a Eddy RPM Air-Gap onto my wife's Duster (Factory 360 car with A/C and Cruise) I spent a few hours searching online for proper heater hose routing last night which I finally figured out (I also have both 1975 Factory Service Manuals but they're a little generic...

I'm bumping this old thread as it is immensely helpful but also wanted to add that I found connectors that can be used for larger (if upgrading the Main or Ignition wire feeds in your harness to 10 Gauge) here: Terminals- Double Wire Female 56 series

That's one of the most impressive failures I've ever seen.. You can tell that the backing plates are still orientated correctly, so only the center spun on the tubes. I'm curious to see what the inside of that rear end looks like.

This is something I've wondered to because I've thought about doing the swap in my garage without access to a machine shop. Lets say LA engine.

they only list a part for V8/904 I suspect that they'd be the same for a 727, but I don't know for sure hence why I haven't ordered them yet.

I can't seem to find a source for pre-bent, ready to install transmission cooler lines. Every website I've found only shows product listings up to 1973, after that nothing. Is there a difference between the lines for a 1973 with a 340/727 and a 1975 Factory 360/727 car? The lines rubbed a...

Nice Car....I'm another local Mopar guy just across the bridge from you in Portland!

and just an FYI to anyone looking to buy these, if you cut out the trim piece on the original door panels, then send them off to Legendary and purchase new door panels, they will transfer them over. They did this for me on my wifes 75 Duster 360 which had those panel trim pieces.

if you're serious about going air ride....more than likely you'll want to look at the Air Ride Specialties integrated springs/shocks (Shockwaves). I "bagged" my truck, it rides like a dream, but to do it right, you'll be spending BIG money. when you buy high quality fittings, line, valves...