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They couldve also dropped in a 265 Hemi-6 in it.

Drop a 265 Hemi straight 6 in it!

I like that air gap intake setup!

not tuned correctly

Not a windage tray but a crank scraper http://www.crank-scrapers.com/What%20is%20a%20crank-scraper.html

Crank scrapers are better

Once you have the adjustable rockers adjusted, that's about as consistent as its gonna get.

Wouldn't using a press on the rocker be able to adjust that stamped rocker to where you want it.

Yeah I hit the wrong button, was trying to hit 535. But the idea was made. Thanks for pointing out my mistake, don't want people to be thinking "that's all I get for going to 1.6".

Didn't a member here make his own 1.6 rockers for the /6 (they looked like the 273 adjustable rockers)?

Adjustable rockers allow for much better valve lash and more accurate opening and closing of the valves. The 1.6 (standard is 1.5 from the factory but are actually between 1.35 to 1.44) is the ratio of how much list is being done on the valve/cam. So if you have a .500" lift cam with1.5 rocker...

Mexico is part of north america.

Then post up a picture of the fender tag.

If you look up in the top right hand corner of the site, there is a vin decoder there for you to use.

Sorry but with an details like that, this is begging to be asked why.

Hey we're all virgins at some point, but I popped that CHERRY FIRST :twisted: (joking around, feel free to ask any other questions :cheers:)

there is a twist cap on top of the valve cover. Untwist that and pour oil in there (If your not sure look into that hole and see if you can see the valve springs).

Why was this Flight of the Bumblebee - YouTube the only thing I could think of when I was your video

a block of wood and a jack or an engine are going to be your best friend.

Motor mount setup (which allows you to bolt up a v8 to slant 6 k frame) or buy a v8 k frame (73+ spool type is the best), v8 tranny either auto (904 or 727) or manual (833 non-overdrive the way to go) and depending on the power output of the motor a stronger rearend, either a 8.25 or 8.75 or...

First it's your motor and you jb weld it if you want. That being said I'd junk that part so fast a super computer wouldnt be able to calculate the speed. Napa wants 300, try other auto parts store and jegs or summit. Some these places will match/ beat them in price

You can get an ARP one (I have this one in my 340), just know its labeled under a 440 (its the same bolt for both blocks though).

I found them.

Sounds like it is because your running/using a strong electrical system now is why. This means more bang for the buck

This screams twin turbos! With twin turbos I wonder if it would've taken down my GTR I had. One can only think of the possibilities.

I would talk to nqkjw he lives the country. If not him I'm sure he could direct you to someone who would know for sure.

To the OP on this thread, sorry for jacking your thread and I still say that roller cam is the way to go, just get it custom made to your specs. If your rebuilding your motor anyway you'll still need to get a cam so just give it a thought. At the end of the day you pick the route you need...

There is a cost to everything you do, that being said its like buying standard brakes or performance brakes. It's just a choice you have to make and I'm just pointing out a different route than standard

Nope roller cams are more efficient than standard cams and I looked at it as less wear and tear on the valvetrain meaning longer engine life. Now if you wanted to know my point of view, all you had to do was ask.

Guess what there is a roller cam for a slant 6 that's what matters! Be it race or street is a different matter, that being said as long a core can be acquired you can get a custom grind on it for the best performance. With that said are you telling me that a standard cam, is more efficient then...