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Isn't that stuff like $35+ a can?? I know there are far better products out there rather than use weld-thru primer and much cheaper. Zinc aids in the prevention of rust but not well enough in my opinion. A catylized epoxy primer would be the best option imo. Once and done, never worry again.

Just did! That should work out nice! BTW, interior looks good too! Wish Dan had more time to play with my old Cuda. I would like to see how well it runs ;)

Probably undercoating from the sound of it! A scraper and map torch does wonders!! :)

MISTAKE!!! Not matter what paint you use this will bite you every time!!! Prep all parts and paint them at one time! If not, when you reassemble you WILL see a color shift and will look like ****. Direction you spray the paint, air pressure, humidity, temperature, reducer/reduction all play...

In all honesty I wouldn't spend cash on either of the brands listed. But since its free it would be either BOSS of Pyle. Pyle used to be quality audio before they sold out to the Chinese. Boss is just another cheap alternative. Dual is out completely!! I know have the Pioneer SuperTuner with...

No point! Just order a single stage color and use hardener in it. Reguardless, the poly paint you want will still cost more even without the metallic mica in it!! It will be transparent as hell and the coverage will be the real issue. You will end up using twice the amount of paint needed to...

As stated prior to this post, Por15 will not stick! PO of my old Cuda applied it and it peeled from the bare metal surface. Use a good Epoxy Primer like PPG DP90LF. Has its own etching properties! No need for acid wash prior to application. Or take it to your local Linex sprayer and have it...

Where exactly are you mounting the turbo again? My Pops is thinking about a rear mount on his Duster. He planned on twins but doesn't want to tackle the headers. Seen one on TTF that cut the trunk pan over the axle and fabbed a box and stickered it to look like a tool box. The turbo was actually...

Sounds nice! Now for the whistle!! :)

Gonna be sweet when you get it going! I have since converted to the SRT8 and super impressed with the 370" Beast, even in a 4500 pound brick!!

Was a while ago but had the R/T hood from AAR on my P/S Ram. Back then they produced quality glass. Shipped nice with just 2 coats of primer and a good block, turned out show quality!! But, like I stated in prior post the quality failed after the company sold to Stinger!!

AAR was top quality until they sold out several years ago. PRICEY parts!! For raceweight glass go to http://www.up22.com/dart67.htm Scroll near the bottom of the page for 70.

Yep! If theres one close.

Looks like these for all hardtop Mopars, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Plymouth-2-Door-Hardtop-Quarter-Window-Rubber-Weatherstrip-Seals-NEW-/310658054265?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1968%7CModel%3ABarracuda&hash=item4854a9b879&vxp=mtr#ht_1982wt_951

http://www.ebay.com/itm/68-CHRYSLER-NEWPORT-DERBY-FULLSIZE-FULL-SET-HEADLIGHT-TRIM-RING-HARDWARE-SCREWS-/231082560698?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35cd980cba&vxp=mtr#ht_44wt_917

The new Chally color has yellow pearl in it. Its actually a Viper color.

Yep!

That would be called RapidMatch X-5 Spectrophotometer through your local PPG dealer. Works well!

Any 63-66 A-body door handle will work. Probably just a broken/rusted clip. Or you can pick up new ones here...

Looks to be Dodge Sassy Grass Green or Plymouth Go Green! FJ6 is the Mopar # PPG code 2259 DuPont code 5127 (L,A or D depends on Dupont line you prefer)

If anyone cares, here is the Satillite with the engine installed. Also did all the vinyl work too. His Dad and Uncle built the car back in the early 80's so he wanted it to look as close as possible to the way they had it. Sentimental memories!! Suppose to do test hits Sunday!!

I would use something a little thicker than bailing wire. Something like a coat hanger. I would run them front to back and side to side and tie the together at each intersection where they cross each other. As stated prior loop the ends around the upper frame of the seat springs. Did they...

What you show in the pic looks correct! IIRC there is the one screw on the hinge and at the bottom there is a clamp with two phillips head screws where it pivots, thats it!

Look here for those, http://www.rtspecialties.net/products.asp?cat=21 Better yet, call them. Might be easier!

Should be the same! Like you said the center button is soft on the 68.

I used Metro seals on my Cuda and the fit was perfect! http://www.ebay.com/itm/WEATHERSTRIP-SEAL-26PC-DUSTER-1971-0-S-H-VALIANT-USA-RUBBER-SEAL-KIT-METRO-/140919736706?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1971%7CModel%3ADuster&hash=item20cf788982&vxp=mtr#ht_796wt_679 They come...

Got mine from Ma Mopar! The dealer that is! There is a pic and part# in my build thread, "Turbo 383 in a A-body Barracuda" in the Forced Induction forum.

Is this what your looking for, http://www.profitautointeriors.com/products/Plymouth/1967/Valiant/Flocked-Glass-Run-Channel--For-models-with-framed-side-glass--96-Piece--Each/82890/WC-33-96.html

Even the Ram trucks marker lights are the same pre 1987.

Kiwi Mink Oil or saddle soap. I use Mink Oil on the leather in the SRT.